Night Storage Heater - Dead Sunhouse Faulting

bad2vbone · Apr 9, 2012

Hi. Thanks for having me. My first post on the forum, wondering if someone can help me please.

I have a Sunhouse SSH24a 79362s (SUNHOUSE - 79342S/79352S/79362S Storage Heater Parts) which just recently has stopped working. Other storage heaters in house are working still, have tried swapping MCBs around but all test ok anyway.

On opening the heater there are 2 components infront the control knobs (Limit Thermostat & Manual Reset Cutout?), both with 2 contacts, and connected in series with one another. I get continuity through these with a meter. All elements test ok.

I am however stuck with the input controller. It looks like a stack of 3 polo mints. 1 solid wire runs from the bottom of the mints to a thermostat(?) under the heater. In the middle are 2 metal contactors (in the closed position as the heater is cold). How do I test this component? Also, as I get continuity through the Limit Thermostat & Manual Reset Cutout, I take it these are ok?

Any info greatly appreciated. Although a telecomms engineer, I have done some electrical work and I am comfortable with the use of a multi-meter and some live testing if needed! Thanks.

Evans Electric · Apr 9, 2012

We can't recommend that you test live .

If an electrician came he would check the supply by tripping the time switch (if old style) or connecting a temp 24 hr supply .

He would also check the D/Pole isolator was still switching the supply to the heater.

He would then remove the heater cover and check the fusible link .

Then he'd be looking to see if the input control was putting a supply to the elements.

Common faults if all the other heaters are working are:-

Someone tripped the MCB in the board.

Loose connection within the heating board.

The DP isolator at the heater has burnt out due to a loose connection .

The safety fusible link has operated to prevent overheating . clothing /cushion piled on heater.

Burnt out connection within the heater .

Buggered input control.

All the elements have failed.

Remember that (a) There is no power to the system during daytime hours but possibly a midday boost and (B) the power will come on automatically ,generally at midnight GMT .

bad2vbone · Apr 9, 2012

Thanks Evans for your excellent post, any idea where to find the fusible link/what it would look like?

I have now checked the wall switch for connections/continuity, all ok. All connections inside the heater seem ok too. I have only bought the house 2 months ago, my first home

2 out of 3 heaters were working, now I'm down to one!

I have just removed the manual reset cut-out thingy with the intention of swapping it with the last remaining worker, however noticed the sides were quite blackened after removal. Since now testing it with croc clips on either end, it appears very sensitive. When in the heater I had tried pressing it, unfortunatly before testing for cont. to see if it clicked. It didn't. Now on the bench, although I get cont ok, the slightest touch of the button can stop it. Hoping this is my fault.

Feeling confident, I tried the heater that never worked, unfortunatly with my finger rather than a meter (I was too keen, should have checked if it was dis b4!) I got a definite 'click' from this one, so fingers crossed it'll work now! My gar, I can't wait for mid-night, it's better than Christmas!

The web site i linked to earlier quotes

sparkytim · Apr 9, 2012

See ECONOMY 7 thread from a few days ago

Evans Electric · Apr 9, 2012

Honestwell ...thats more like Honeywell ..specially as the T is next to the Y .

It sounds like you're getting there TBH specially as you can swop parts .

.

kerching · Apr 9, 2012

Usual fault is that the series stat and over temp fails. {did one last week]

One of the sensors is resettable [overheat] one auto resets [thermostat temp control]

Did you check continuity with these 'disconnected'? as you could 'pick something else up'. There is no fusible link

Replacement bits come as a 'field installable service kit' with a pot connector and some other bits, FFFF expensive for what they are but what choice have you... :coat