No heater in van :(

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Noz,

You can easily check the thermostat function in the van.

If the water pump IS u/s & cam belt driven then yes change the belt & tensioner idler etc. at the same time.

Are you sure there is enough water in the rad?...

If it is down you need to find where it is going first, could be that the rad cap is weak also.

 
Noz,You can easily check the thermostat function in the van.

If the water pump IS u/s & cam belt driven then yes change the belt & tensioner idler etc. at the same time.

Are you sure there is enough water in the rad?...

If it is down you need to find where it is going first, could be that the rad cap is weak also.
My reasoning behind jus changing the stat was because it's never been replaced since I've had it, so it's 7 years old!

Unfortunately most pumps are cam belt driven nowdays, but I'm not going to jump into this head first without checking it out first!

As for how much water is in the rad, ATM all I know is that there is plenty of water in the expansion vessel! and obviously if there is a leak somewhere I'll have to fix that (pretty sure there isn't though)

 
I think in order of cost I'll....Make sure inlet is clear of leaves etc

Try and clear any possible air locks

Flush the cooling system

Change the thermostat

Replace the pump (and cam belt and pulleys while they're there)

Oh and not forgetting to put some fresh anti freeze in once I've got it working!
provided the pump is not driven by the cam belt, just buy a gasket so you can remove it to check its condition. Don't buy a pump straight off in case you don't actually need one.

In the 90's some manufacturers tried using plastic impellors on their pumps (cheaper to make), but these were found to be extremely unreliable. Don't know if yours is one of those.

 
If it is something restricting the flow at low speed and the low flow affects the whole engine (not just the matrix) then this can be very damaging. The area around the exhaust valves can overheat causing damage to valves and guides. Fortunately yours is a normally aspirated diesel so the exhaust temperatures are low, so damage may take a long time to take hold. Nevertheless, avoid long periods at idle (or low speed high load driving) until you've fixed it.

 
Could also be the valve which allows water into the heater matrix may be jammed close to the fully closed position thus not allowing water into the heater matrix.

 
I,m wondering if its the water pump itself TBH , hot water circulates at fast revs and stops when idling .

I'm sure I have used a Ford Forum on the web ,worth a try before paying garage fees.

 
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