P.E mag morons

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sb_89

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Anybody read 'Hot stuff' in the letters section ? Apparently a 2.5 mm t&e has 100A running through it, because it's connected directly to the 1361 main cut out . Then he says ' from the main cut out to a fuse spur ....... Which has a 13 A fuse in it !' - Like a 2.5 can't handle 13A lol

The install isn't right but when you have idiots correcting idiots I dispair.

 
It frightens me how many "qualified electricians" there are, that simply don't understand basic electrical circuits, ohms law and current flow etc.

As long as you can remember a set of regs and do things as you are told, that seems good enough.

 
I noticed that one . A 2.5mm carrying 100A and the 13A fuse never even blew either ....Eh!

Wonder if he means the 2.5mm is connected into the 100A main switch ?

PS ; I did once win the Brother label printer for the star letter in that column ...and very good it is too !!

 
a colleague of mine saw a single socket converted to a 4gang socket with one of those special converters. He said "thats overloaded for a start". JEEZ:shakehead

 
It was hard to tell from his pic. Presumably the available 100A wazzes down the cable @ 3 x 108ms-1....powers past the fuse wasting 13A on its way and the remainder goes to the garden lights. Ipso facto cables get hot. Simples really as long as you ignore all of the Laws of Physics, Electrical Theory, The Universe and everything! The writer needs introducing to an earth rod [internally].......... :coat

 
I noticed that one too!

Did you notice too that on the photos page someone reckons the swa cleats are upside down because they are mounted with the screw below the cable???

Surely that's the correct way to mount them so the weight of the cable is bearing down on the screw via the thick part of the cleat in compression rather than the thin wals in tension (all [normal] materials are stronger in compression than tension)

 
Mmmm. I saw that about the cleats and treated it with the contempt that it duly deserved.

Time for a confession, prepares to be shot down in flames.

I have in the past been known to alternate the orientation of the cleats to make the parallel rows look neater ie top row 'hole down' bottom row 'hole up' or the other way around, I realise I have been in error in doing this and felt it only right and propper to fess=up to my misdemeanors.

I bow my head in shame.....Oh, forgot to mention [who gives a flying frick anyway]

 
I have in the past been known to alternate the orientation of the cleats to make the parallel rows look neater ie top row 'hole down' bottom row 'hole up' or the other way around, I realise I have been in error in doing this and felt it only right and propper to fess=up to my misdemeanors.

I bow my head in shame.....Oh, forgot to mention [who gives a flying frick anyway]
should have only clipped one, and cable tied the other to it

 
so what is the wieght of 600-1000mm of 6mm 3C SWA

Jeez your cleats must be weak!!!!!!

I usually fit them whichever way is appropriate for the situation or whether it looks neat or not

Why am I wasting my time on this - cricket a bit slow this morn!! RSA 136-4 of 35

 
Well Professional Electricians magazine is dependant on advertising, so prints this ****, rather than topics that affect Our Trade, so any criticism of the Competence or Accreditation industries will not appear.

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I prefer the screws at the top, cleat underneath, each to their own. My college lecturer (15th Edition days, not that that's relevant but does mean it was a while back) insisted I clip T&E with the nails below the cable, he marked down my 1 way light switch install in the test bay for this very thing. I have been clipping upside down ever since to prove him wrong.

Never had a cable spontaneously unclip itself either!

 
one reason for screws below is that in case of fire and the plastic clip melts, the cable may still be supported on the screw / nail enough to stop it falling down

i usually put the screws/nails on the bottom, but its not always possible

 
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