Hi,
Thanks Murdoch for your Hager JB information. I've just been browsing the web for installation details on these Hager JB's and also on YouTube but its taking quite a bit of time so I'll have another look tonight; I did find details on YouTube about Debox SL with FREE Screwless Terminal Block; as I say though I'm learning all the time and its interesting to see what is now available; the Hager has cable clamp screws and "fits nicely in the hand" ? I like the look of the Hager JB's though they look a nice bit of kit. I bought ten WAGOBOXES and plenty of WAGO 221 connectors so I'll see how I get along with these; this forum though is brilliant as you experts know about all the up to date materials and methods whilst being generous and most helpful with your information and suggestions.
Thanks Andy; I think I'm pretty safe using 2.5mm T&E for power rings and 1.5mm T&E for lighting; I'll check the cooker cable to ensure its all in at least 6mm T&E. I could spend a great deal of time just reading rather than getting on with the job but I'm keen to do both as I want to be absolutely sure everything is safe and complies with regulations.
Thanks Evans Electric; I did wonder what the older cable was so its nice to know its 7/.029; I'll double check to be safe though. I've spent many hours browsing the web for up to date information and this is how I ended up choosing Wago products because some of the JB's will not be easily accessible once installed. No I'll not spend a lot of money on test instruments just for this one off job; I'm pretty sure the equipment I already have is sufficient considering when 25 years ago when I installed our current CU I hadn't a clue what a DMM was and I think 25 years trouble free service indicates nothing too much wrong; my new Kewtech Loopcheck 107 also reads "Good". I've never used my Megger though on household wiring so it's going to be new to me hooking up to the three ring mains; garage; main bungalow and kitchen.My first thoughts are to obviously isolate the power then for simplicity of connecting the Megger use a 13A plug but leave the cap off and hook the Megger onto the terminals then crank up? I'll unplug and isolate anything from the circuits because 1,000V injected will be searching.
I fully appreciate the need for safety when it comes to electricity regarding shock and fire risk but how far is this safety going to go; I'm only speaking from work I do myself so its not a case of someone on a new housing estate is going to cut through a cable or bang a nail through a cable; I'm working entirely on my own and I've managed to repair much more complex electrical kit like vintage radio/TV without introducing shorts or faults of any kind; I can't help thinking all this testing is fire fighting rather than having the skill to to the job correctly in the first place? I'm not trying to provoke discussion on this subject of testing but I've been in industry for a lifetime and I see the difference between those who are idiots and those who are genuinely skilled; are we heading to installing a single conductor between two terminals then having to fully test that all is well in case we've been careless and nicked the insulation or failed to nip up a screw? Years ago Bron and I were watching a TV program where apprentice electricians were let loose on a new build; we were appalled by what we saw; bare conductors and two nails through a cable and the two apprentices thought it was funny; had I done anything like this in the pit I would have been beaten up by the engineers who made absolutely certain all my work was up to scratch. Once final testing is carried out then everything is perfect until the new home owner does something silly; however safe something is made it will never be idiot proof.
At almost 70 years of age I've been around the block a few times and looking back over this thread I'd like to stress I'm not encouraging novices to play around with electricity which would be highly reckless of me; neither am I criticizing testing but this electrical testing is becoming increasingly complex involving expensive test instruments and endless ever changing regulations; how many tests does it take before a circuit is considered safe? On our current CU if a light bulb blows it knocks out the lighting circuit; this is an improvement over the original wired fuse boxes I replaced but now I'm upgrading once again to a split load CU with a pair of RCD's.
Below are pictures of our current Wylex 6 way CU; our new BG 16 way CU with mains tails pre-installed and a project I did years ago installing my own 3 phase 415V into the garage; the method I used for winding on the coils is entirely my own idea it being a long wooden shuttle which I could thread through the lamination's making for a very neat winding; I bought 3 x instructional DVD's from Unique3phase in America and although I've not received any electrical training I successfully installed 3 phase costing just under £120 at the time; Douglas Arndt the creator of Unique3phase now kindly credits me with the shuttle winding method. 240V in 415V out (third phase 600V to compensate for capacitor drop) and once my machines were phase balanced to this transformer they ran at full power and I could run a single or multiple machines up to the transformer output limit; the transformer weighs around 75kg anyway I've just added this because I think I'm competent to work on our household electrics but I'm in no way complacent hence I do a lot of research up front and is why I added this thread. I'm not a casual DIY'er having just designed and built a 4 HP saw bench which is the reason I'm upgrading the electrics and CU. Many thanks moderators for not jumping on me; I tend to ramble on and go off topic but hopefully its interesting and in a way all this is related.
I think its stopped raining so time to get something done.
Kind regards, Col.
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