Siezed screws

[NozSpark]

I have some terminal screws in a CU (earth and neutral) that are seized (possibly rusted),,,, I was wondering what the best method would be to free them

I was thinking of "painting" the thread with some WD40 or Plus Gas,,,, definitely not spraying them!

 

[steptoe]

GT85 is waaaaaaay better than WD40

Personally I'd maybe try cutting the cable,    :C

Btw, painting doesn't have the same effect, the 'gas' is what carries the effect, unless you have some normal pump action WD,  which I'm guessing you don't, 

 

[kerching]

I would go for Plus Gas  or the very similar WD40 penetrating fluid NOT the standard WD40

also try 'tightening' the screw very slightly before spraying

be prepared for a day of tears though

BFO soldering iron is quite handy....best to use before the penetrating fluid....dont want Trumpton making another rule

 

[poni]

could you use heat?

 

[NozSpark]

GT85 is waaaaaaay better than WD40

Personally I'd maybe try cutting the cable,    :C

Btw, painting doesn't have the same effect, the 'gas' is what carries the effect, unless you have some normal pump action WD,  which I'm guessing you don't, 

Cheers..... cutting the cable isn't going to happen.... it's a SQ D QOE plastic CU IIRC and nearly all the earth and neutral terminal screws are seized..

TBH I'll get whatever I need to as a can of "whatever" has to be worth a punt,,,, otherwise it's a CU change

I would go for Plus Gas  or the very similar WD40 penetrating fluid NOT the standard WD40

also try 'tightening' the screw very slightly before spraying

be prepared for a day of tears though

BFO soldering iron is quite handy....best to use before the penetrating fluid....dont want Trumpton making another rule

How BFO do you want,,, I've used some with a 1" wide tip before.... used to have to can instruments IYKWIM

could you use heat?

Heat could prove to be difficult.... it's a plastic CU!!!!

 

[Rob_the_rich]

Could have been overheating which caused the threads to melt in the first place, it's a plastic CU after all.

 

[NozSpark]

They've definitely not over heated.... it's more a damp issue

 

[Blue Duck]

`Cut drill re-thread?

oar

Can you get new terminals? Had some from a starbreaker skeleton that saved my butt once.

h34r:

...Just stabbing away wildly in the dark like OJ Simpson ( allegedly).

 

[Evans Electric]

Noz, is it possible to grip just the one screw head with water pump grips or similar and just turn it  1/4 turn  then screwdriver ?

 

[NozSpark]

Thanks for your ideas guys....

Hopefully I'll be able to free the screws now

 

[Andy™]

WD40. on the plus side, its also non-conductive

(yes, i did do an IR test on some a while back...)

 

[roys]

WD40. on the plus side, its also non-conductive

(yes, i did do an IR test on some a while back...)

Andy, you might be correct, but at a place where I once worked we were not allowed to use WD40 in electrical enclosures as it was blamed (after an incident investigation) for a flash over, granted it was a 600V 3 phase and above supplied enclosures

I can not prove either way wether it is suitable, but if used I would make sure it was only used sparingly on the exact point it was used rather than sprayed liberally.

 

[Andy™]

the gas may be flammable - could be propane or similar. if its got a spark or something hot then it could also ignite

 

[Marvo]

Noz, is it possible to grip just the one screw head with water pump grips or similar and just turn it  1/4 turn  then screwdriver ?

It's a bit of an acquired art but you can also use side cutters on a seized screw head.. As already stated tighten a little first then unscrew and go a quarter turn back in for every half turn you go out if that makes sense?

 

[NozSpark]

It's a bit of an acquired art but you can also use side cutters on a seized screw head.. As already stated tighten a little first then unscrew and go a quarter turn back in for every half turn you go out if that makes sense?

That does absolutely make sense,,, I've tried most mechanical methods that I had to hand at the time,,, I was hoping that someone might know of a chemical releasing agent that would be suitable and might work....

I don't like the idea of soaking a consumer unit with WD40 or the like so thats why I was thinking of "painting" something like WD40 onto the threads.... I might try a micro torch

 

[Blue Duck]

http://www.getgeared.co.uk/hammerite-kurust-rust-converter-90ml?utm_medium=shopping_feed_gg15&gclid=CLLGtKzmyMsCFbEy0wodFxUIxQ&utm_source=google

???

 

[steptoe]

That basically allegedly turns rust into a solid primed surface,

Almost the opposite from what Noz wants,

If you do 'paint' WD or similar on, make sure you get proper pump stuff, not aerosol, 

Try some weak acid,??????

Impact driver,?

The type you hit with a hammer,

not the cordless type we so often overuse.

 

[Sharpend]

how about simply tapping the end of the screwdriver with several short sharp blows with hammer? 

 

[Andy™]

or rip out the board and install a LFB approved metal one

 

[Blue Duck]

That basically allegedly turns rust into a solid primed surface,

Almost the opposite from what Noz wants,

If you do 'paint' WD or similar on, make sure you get proper pump stuff, not aerosol, 

Try some weak acid,??????

Impact driver,?

The type you hit with a hammer,

not the cordless type we so often overuse.

Odd stuff, only used it on the van and around the home. I thought it just disolved the rust and left a black residue you clean & prime :C

I've never over used an impact driver  :innocent

@NozSparkSure you can't remove the Terminals?