Sinking boxes too deep

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alchemist

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Lets say hypothetically O) that someone was sinking a single back box into a wall made from some sort of concrete block type materia, with a cavity and brick on the other side of the cavity.

Imagine if said person got carried away with the circular cutter and went all the way through the wall into the cavity. :Applaud

What would be the best way of sorting that, would they be able to just put the box in (I'd worry about moisture and exposure to elements) or fill the back of new hole with something first - and what to fill with? - Concrete, mortar, plaster?

Thanks in advance, and yes the person above is yours truly.

On a similar subject. What's the best way of getting good alignment when you have multiple boxes next to each other. I know the lugs allow some room for error if it's not level but if not aligned there's not much you can do except make the hole a bit bigger and move the box? I guess it takes practice to get it perfect everytime.

 
Unless your hole has gone through the outer brick then there should be no exposure to elements.

If you were worried about draught from the cavity then you could always fit acoustic/fire back boxes?

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index/Boxes_and_Enclosures_Index/Boxes_Dry_Lining/index.html

You couldn't cement behind as it would all fall down cavity, expanding foam may be your only bet. If you had no rear fixings you might have to adapt a dry lining box with flanges.

 
Most metal boxes have fixing holes in the sides to fix into instead of the rear.

 
Expanding foam let it go tacky then insert box, you may have to prop it to stop it sliding. Then fix to sides.

I fit one box then fit the second but before tightening back second put 3.5mm screws in the two fixed lugs and level across making sure box's are level of course. It is a bit fiddly but always seems to work

 
Just fill the sides of the box to the wall with No Nails or some other similar adhesive compound. can even fill the holes in the back of the box with it too ... or use expanding foam.... I'm sure your not the only one to have a similar experience!!!! It's called ''Experience!!!''

Getting your boxes in a straight line is simple with a laser level, or a stringed line to the TOP of your boxes....

 
the options are endless, you could cut a peice of wood and jam it in, getting a fixxing on that and run a bit of no nails around the edge, or no nails it all in place, or expanding foam.

As for getting multiple boxes level, level up all of your fixed lugs with a long level or lazer, and get your boxes as level as you can, as long as all of your fixed lugs are level, the play in the floating one will help if your boxes are slightly off.

 
Where boxes are very close, you can use galv conduit couplers and brass bushes.

Assemble the boxes together with the couplers and bushes, and then fix the whole lot into one long chase.

 
Plasterboard is good to stop the bonding falling back in the hole and as Spinney says couplers and brass bushes to level them up if they are close together.

 
Bush's and couplers cost money with plenty of slop in the holes nowadays as well,and more kit to carry around. I may be tight but a level every time for me.

 
Lets say hypothetically O) that someone was sinking a single back box into a wall made from some sort of concrete block type materia, with a cavity and brick on the other side of the cavity.Imagine if said person got carried away with the circular cutter and went all the way through the wall into the cavity. :Applaud

What would be the best way of sorting that, would they be able to just put the box in (I'd worry about moisture and exposure to elements) or fill the back of new hole with something first - and what to fill with? - Concrete, mortar, plaster?

Thanks in advance, and yes the person above is yours truly.

On a similar subject. What's the best way of getting good alignment when you have multiple boxes next to each other. I know the lugs allow some room for error if it's not level but if not aligned there's not much you can do except make the hole a bit bigger and move the box? I guess it takes practice to get it perfect everytime.
I find Plasterboard adhesive good for putting boxes in where the wall has fallen apart or other people (I never ever do it see) have dug too much out. ?:|

 
the options are endless, you could cut a peice of wood and jam it in, getting a fixxing on that and run a bit of no nails around the edge, or no nails it all in place, or expanding foam.As for getting multiple boxes level, level up all of your fixed lugs with a long level or lazer, and get your boxes as level as you can, as long as all of your fixed lugs are level, the play in the floating one will help if your boxes are slightly off.
Yep or just use a spirit level across the fixed lugs, larnacaman mentioned level the top of the boxes but this does not guarantee the alignment like going across the lugs does. Measure an inch between boxes to get a decent spacing. Laser level is good but if you are tight and have no laser/couplers then the spirit level and tape measure method will work just as well.

 
Yep or just use a spirit level across the fixed lugs, larnacaman mentioned level the top of the boxes but this does not guarantee the alignment like going across the lugs does. Measure an inch between boxes to get a decent spacing. Laser level is good but if you are tight and have no laser/couplers then the spirit level and tape measure method will work just as well.
Of course it lines the boxes up!!! Lining up the bottoms the tops or the lugs of the boxes will level the boxes out. I said to level and mark the tops, only because it's easier to see when your cutting out.

 
Use anything like wood, plasterboard, brick or stone just seal it in with loads of grip fill or plaster or cement if available easily.

Can also seal around metal box with grip fill too, just make sure you don't want to move it again though!!

Check boxes are level with lugs, as they can sometimes be mis-shaped.

 
Of course it lines the boxes up!!! Lining up the bottoms the tops or the lugs of the boxes will level the boxes out. I said to level and mark the tops, only because it's easier to see when your cutting out.
Lining up the top/bottom of the boxes is not a guarantee all the fixed lugs are level. To get a decent finish level the boxes across the fixed lugs.

 
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Yeah, ...alright, whatever you say !!! I must of been getting it all wrong for the last 30 odd years then..... :C

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