Terminating swa picture guide

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Hi there Am a student lecky and was wondering did you wire the swa straight to the MCB with no connector block in an adaptable box?. And just checking, I'm using 4mm swa and I need to connect to a 32A mcb?
Terminate swa to an adaptable box then take the conductors through into the cu (box is butted upto the cu), terminating to the mcb/met & neutral terminal & earth flylead from earth nut (dont bother with banjo's anymore) of gland to met. No need to join anything if its cut to the right lengths.

 
Terminate swa to an adaptable box then take the conductors through into the cu (box is butted upto the cu), terminating to the mcb/met & neutral terminal & earth flylead from earth nut (dont bother with banjo's anymore) of gland to met. No need to join anything if its cut to the right lengths.
Thanks for the advice, helps alot.

Just one more question. When you say use an earth nut, where does the cpc from the 3 core connect to if you don't use a banjo. Does it connect to the grub screw on the nut and then from the same grub screw to the MET? Do you have any close up pictures of the fitting?

many thanks for your time and advice.

Stacy

 
Ahem.....(time to come clean) well it was swa left over from another job that was just (had 8 inches waste) long enough with some artful location of the run;), soooooooooo I used it and priced the customer (of this job) for 2 core as I felt guilty for making on the same cable twice......but not so guilty that I was going to give it away free:innocent

 
swa left overs off a couple of jobs & from a garage clearance of a mates dads garage post his passing away, are now down to:

11 meter length of 4 core 1.5mm

5 meters 16mm 2 core

3 - 4 meter 10mm 2 core

22 meters 3 core 2.5mm (lined up for a job this Friday)

You never know when it might come in handy......

 
I do hope you superglued the adaptable box lid on,!!!!!!

a stuffer gland and appropriate heatshrink may have been a better idea, there should be no part of the exported earth accessible at any part of the remote installation under normal circumstances/maintenance.

 
two tips i have found through doing hundreds of SWA from 1.00mm to 630mm

1st when your doing the large sizes [or tight spots] in a sturdy box use a large screwdrive and hammer tap the nut round to get it tighter

2nd when terminating in to sharp boxes score the inner core but dont remove it untill its in the box. i have had to remove alot of other peoples work since pushing the cable in to the enclosure has stripped the cables to the cores

 
Never tap the nut with a hammer & screwdriver.

Use the correct tools for the job.

A screwdriver is NOT a chisel, and is not designed for hitting with a hammer.

A lock nut is hexagonal for a reason, use a suitable spanner then all will be fine.

A lock nut should ALWAYS be tighter than hand tight, and there is no guarantee of the torque on the nut if you "hit it with a screwdriver & hammer".

Not a very competent way to do things TBH.

 
What an unusual uneducated statement!

Unfortunately you are not on your own, the industry is inundated with like minded people who never do anything to good working practice and conforming with the manufacturers instructions.

 
This is the world of the perfect electrician sometimes!!! I would actually love to see a lot of your lots work! Bet some of you only use fold conductors!!

Are you telling me you actually tighten swa locknuts to the recommended torque?

You manage to get a torque wrench onto the locknut of a 300mm 4 core terminated into a tight MCCB panel board?

Oh to be gods it mush be great up on your high horses being keyboard warriors!!!

Sometimes the forum amazes me with the high and mighty statements that are posted!!!!

 
I suppose I could be a keyboard warrior, however I know what tool to use to tighten lock nuts. Which is why your statement tells myself and others that you have not done any big jobs that involve the use of such a tool.

Just for you I will provide a link to one such tool.

http://www.bushnutspanner.co.uk/lockset.html

Now ask your question again?

 
Nice Job M :D

I also use Jr Hacksaw  sod the blade runners   i use a copper pipe ringer just to give my my score lines for where to start with my hacksaw etc :D

streety gave me a length of old armoured and had me glanding it using both  Internal and External Glands then cutting it back and doing it again till i had it done properly 

i have a bush nut spanner and find it much easier to gauge the tightness without being able to get a torque wrench or anything on there when glancing into any c/u or adaptable boxes etc. 

and ParkySparky..... tbh you sit there and say  that members on here are keyboard warriors and such the like, but yet it is you whom is acting as such with such random posts as  Tripe and  subsequently commenting that we are all perfectionists etc,   nobody in this world can claim to be perfect at anything they do, but they can strive to ,maintain high standards in the work that we undertake and ensure that we ourselves are confident and competent in all that we do and comments such as yours are not in any way usefull or assistive to our student members in any way shape or form, 

 
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