testing of ballast unit

[Lannielectrical]

Any body know how to test a ballast unit in a light?

 

[batty]

Is this a high frequancy ballast or choke?

 

[Lannielectrical]

Hi frequency I believe they are in fittings housing a 4 pin 2d lamp no starter so assuming hi freq

 

[batty]

If it doesn't work i just replace them not really much more that can go wrong.

 

[Evans Electric]

If its got 240V across it and the lamp is a known "Good 'un" the ballast is U/S .

Some scanning transformers on downlights are odd to test , couldn't get a 12v reading on some last week but replace the lamp and they work .

 

[Lannielectrical]

The lights all work that's the problem but they have a intermittent fault I have disconnected them all and done a ir test and all is clear so assuming that've ballast is on it's way out

 

[PC Electrics]

I've just replaced about a dozen 2D bulkheads at our local footy club. The ballasts had gone (probably because the lights had been on for months with duff lamps). The company whose lights they were are in Northampton so I rang them - yes, they do spare ballasts. With vat and post comes to

 

[Andy™]

often cheaper replacing the fitting than repairing it. i keep spare chokes for switch start in the van though

 

[batty]

I only replace them on twin fluorescents in offices at a charity i do maintanance for much cheaper than replacing the whole lights but as you say if they are bulkheads its cheaper to replace the whole fitting.

 

[NozSpark]

I've got one to do in the next week or so.

It's in a fridge display cabinet, it must be HF because the other working ones switch on immediately and there are no starters,,, there is however a choke!?

The balast is

 

[Andy™]

most terminals do have a release on them - small driver into the slot pushes clamp away and you can pull cable out

 

[NozSpark]

,,, but for

 

[Andy™]

weigh the rest of the fitting in...

 

[kerching]

Right then, this may be useful to you all......or not....your choice.

If you do not know if a control is HF or Switchstart, get out your mobile, set it to camera, look at the light fitting [when on] through the viewfinder. If it is switch start then the lamp will 'strobe' in the viewfinder. if it is HF the light will appear normal. Unfortunately this does not work with iPhone 4

note....this method is fricking useless if the fitting does not work; so on reflection it is a bit of a carp piece of info really, sorry....... :coat

 

[Andy™]

never heard that one before. as a side note, you can test remote controls this way - IR light from remote is displayed visable on screen

 

[NozSpark]

The only way I'd test a ballast is by swapping the tubes for known good ones,,, and if ss then I'd also swap the starter