1.83 kw oven

[Steve M]

Where do I start well I was asked by my cousin last week to have a look at he's oven which also doubles up as a grill. He asked could it just have a 13A plug on it and plug straight into a socket in the ring main. After doing the calculations it turns out to be just under 8A but I decided to run a 6mm from the C.U and put it on a 15A MCB am I right in doing this I'm in my final year at college but I thought as it's family I would do them a favour?? But what is making me think is that a cheeky plumber told him that it could be plugged straight in to a socket but I thought better to be safe then sorry. Cheers sparks.

 

[johninlondon1]

Still needs notifying as its an additional circuit, did you test & issue certification?

 

[Steve M]

No I haven't as I'm not qualified to do so yet I know I shouldn't be doing anything by myself but I just thought as a favour I would.

 

[Doc Hudson]

A 13A plug would probably have been fine for 1.8kW rated appliance, remember kettles and washing machines are normally higher than this 2.2kW+. Was it a new oven, did you have access to the manufactures installation booklet? A useful indication is if the oven comes with a length of heat res flex already connected. Some on the forum would comment that doing a favour by breaking a building regs statuary law is questionable? However if the same appliance was just plugged into an existing socket it is not notifiable as its the circuit, not the appliance that required building regs compliance.

Doc H.

 

[Steve M]

Its an old oven with a 6 mm cable already connected. No instructions just the rating 1.83 kw I just thought to be safe run in a 6 mm t+e all the time that I've worked with other sparks they have always run a separate supply to a over. I run the cable in mini trunking 11 mts long.

 

[Theorysparky]

Steve

how is this oven connected at the moment

 

[Doc Hudson]

As a good practice it is often better to have a dedicated cooker circuit to allow some future proof against a later oven upgrade to a higher rated appliance. Also it provides added convenience in the event of a fault on the socket circuit killing the cooker or a cooker fault taking all your sockets out. It is generally better to avoid putting high power fixed appliances on a socket circuit if possible. But it could actually be a situation where both you and the plumber are right.

Doc H.

 

[Theorysparky]

also if you were going to run 6mm from the board as a new cct then then the mcb could be 32amp

protecting cable not the appliance

also it would allow for a future upgrade to a bigger rated appliance

 

[Steve M]

It's now connected to a cooker switch supplied in 6mm and protected by a 15A MCB. So in general I done it right if not I will go back around there to rectify my mistake cheers again.

 

[betty swollocks]

Nothing wrong with what you've done

I think it's best to have a dedicated circuit for the cooker/oven

The 15A mcb is ok too for an oven that size

All sounds good to me

But testing is a must to be safe

Notifying is a necessary evil that should also be addressed

 

[Steve M]

That's good to hear where I'm not quite qualified and then someone like a plumber questions why you have done it that way it makes you think. Cheers for all the replies I think I will leave doing the odd job here and there until I'm capable off signing my work off and fully qualified only a few months to go.

 

[Evans Electric]

You could have plugged it in but you decided to do it another way and theres nothing wrong with how you did it .

That circuit is now useful if a bigger oven is introduced .

Great is'nt it? You do someone a favour and there,s a plumber criticising what you did. headbang

OK you didn't notify it , best add that job to the 100,000,000 other jobs not notified each year I 'spose.

 

[Steve M]

That's the only one I have done without it being checked over and the last.

 

[steptoe]

you will go to the depths of despair and burn forever for not notifying that,

or,

you could say its not finished yet,

you only have to notify the work once it has been completed, and by the time you get the CU labelled up with the nice new sticker saying OVEN CIRCUIT you will have become a member of a scam,

ps, but do a test on it now, at least then you know the Zs is good,

 

[ProDave]

Just my tuppence worth.

Is it JUST a cooker switch, or a cooker switch with a 13A socket?

If the latter, then as well as your 8A cooker load, allow for 13A from the socket as well, gives 21A

In that case I would probably have fitted a 32A breaker instead of the 16A one.

BUT what do the oven's instructions say? We have to abide by whatever they say, and they might for instance say "13A fuse" in which case connect the oven via an FCU after the switch to achieve that.

 

[Theorysparky]

you will go to the depths of despair and burn forever for not notifying that,or,

you could say its not finished yet,

you only have to notify the work once it has been completed, and by the time you get the CU labelled up with the nice new sticker saying OVEN CIRCUIT you will have become a member of a scam,

ps, but do a test on it now, at least then you know the Zs is good,

Or you could just say the homeowner did it !!

when asked,,,,,he must have got the info on how to do it from the internet !!!!!!!!

 

[Steve M]

From the cooker switch connected to the oven I'm happy with what I did if I could test it I would.

Thanks for all the help on this matter.

 

[SnailHunter]

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[OnOff]

Just fitted my Bosch single oven - on the (Currys?) website it just said "13A" ditto on the Bosch site. I am aware that regs say any cooking appliance over 2kW should be on their own radial. Anyway, when it turned up the instructions were vague to say the least just that it be supplied by an all pole switch and cable suitable for the load. The actual rating is 2.4kW Ended up putting a 20A DP switch on the RFC feeding a single un-switched socket. The connection studs for the cable are M6 i.e. 6mm dia and for ring crimps - no other option. I used blue crimps, 2.5mm heat resistant 3-core cable (I could have I know used 1.5mm) and a plug top. TBH the new giant size Geroge Foreman she's just got has a moulded 13A plug on it and that is rated at 1.96kW - I know that is under the 2KW. That is used the other end of the kitchen on a radial. In an ideal world I would have put it, the single oven, on a 16A breaker but not got one spare in the CU. At least with a 20A DP there is no question of discrimination with the plug top and fuse in an FCU if I had used that.

 

[Evans Electric]

Ovens are strange devices. Everyone thinks they come with 13A plug tops on .

On all kitchens I enquire what the power ratings of the oven and hobs will be at 1st fix stage. Almost without exception the answer is ...."They are just plug-in jobbies" ...usually from kitchen fitters.

And if you believe that you'll believe anything TBH .