Boiler Issues

[Mr T]

Evening all I would appreciate some input on the following situation..

customer is having a new kitchen fitted.. all cables have been exposed and all ran in unsafe zones some ridiculous wiring of which i have been sorting out.

Joint box above the ceiling with a 2.5 t&e into it and a flex from the jb into the boiler..the t&e ran across a wall into a wall and into the ceiling so I disconnected it and re routed it before reconnecting..

customer is now saying that the boiler isnt responding to the controller..the boiler runs when the programmer is off..the boiler turns off so it is responding to some control maybe a room stat however it then fires up again..

the customer has a Potterton EP2001 Controller with a Feed in and a flex out to a wiring centre with brown being switch live for Hot Water and Green/Yellow (no sleeving) used as switch live for CH

Then in the cupboard upstairs is a 2 port valve a pump and a cylinder stat and a room t'stat on the landing..

Before I get more involved can any experts advise on dealing with any similar issues and pointing me in the direction of the fault ??

Customer says his rads dont warm up.. If the valve is stuck in the hot water position then wouldnt that explain the rads not heating ? But the cable to the boiler has 240 v between L-N on it even when the boiler isnt burning..

your thoughts would be appreciated

 

[steptoe]

is it a combi or a system?

 

[kme]

If the wiring is that stuffed up - I`m not surprised it doesn`t work right.

You`ll need the connection details for the boiler - and probably the control system, and just redo it right. 

( Thats what I`d do, anyway...............)

 

[Mr T]

Hi all

Its not a combi

Its just a cylinder and room stat, a 2 port valve and a pump

 

[steptoe]

it cant be ,

unless you have to have hot water to get heating, and the cylinder stat simply closes to 2port valve.

Id do as KME suggests, thats prob the only way to get it right, btw, the perm live at the boiler may be required for a pump over-run.

 

[Theorysparky]

Did it all work before you touched it ???

if so I would look at the changes you made,,,,, then I would start from scratch and rewire it

 

[Mr T]

the customer has an immersion heater for his hot water and the boiler for the Central heating , it was working fine (so im told) ive priced to rewire the kitchen so havent included for rewiring the heating system however to get it sorted then I'll do whats required..

Did it all work before you touched it ???

if so I would look at the changes you made,,,,, then I would start from scratch and rewire it

Apparantly so..ive disconnected a 2.5 mm 2 cable and re routed it and reconnected it so cant be an error from me the customer saw the cables running in unsafe zones (I marked up what it was before disconnecting)

 

[SPECIAL LOCATION]

Evening all I would appreciate some input on the following situation..

customer is having a new kitchen fitted.. all cables have been exposed and all ran in unsafe zones some ridiculous wiring of which i have been sorting out.

Joint box above the ceiling with a 2.5 t&e into it and a flex from the jb into the boiler..the t&e ran across a wall into a wall and into the ceiling so I disconnected it and re routed it before reconnecting..

customer is now saying that the boiler isnt responding to the controller..the boiler runs when the programmer is off..the boiler turns off so it is responding to some control maybe a room stat however it then fires up again..

the customer has a Potterton EP2001 Controller with a Feed in and a flex out to a wiring centre with brown being switch live for Hot Water and Green/Yellow (no sleeving) used as switch live for CH

Then in the cupboard upstairs is a 2 port valve a pump and a cylinder stat and a room t'stat on the landing..

Before I get more involved can any experts advise on dealing with any similar issues and pointing me in the direction of the fault ??

Customer says his rads dont warm up.. If the valve is stuck in the hot water position then wouldnt that explain the rads not heating ? But the cable to the boiler has 240 v between L-N on it even when the boiler isnt burning..

your thoughts would be appreciated

Before diving in anymore to a situation like this you have to stop and remember a few facts....

1/ If you have only repositioned / replaced an incorrectly routed cable AND re-terminated the conductors on an exact like for like replacement..

then the system will still be working as it was before you touched it.

2/ The existing system is already wired in a dubious manner as you say green/yell is used as a live conductor..

(Advise the customer of this ref good practice BS7671 reg 514.2)

Therefore dont assume anything that you have not proved yourself.

3/  The weather is only just starting to get a bit cooler and a vast swathe of heating systems have probably Not had their radiators switched on for a few months!!

It is the common time of year for seized valves, sludge blocking pipes, pumps failing ect..

4/ If you are confident working on heating wiring systems and want to have a look at it, tell the customer you will only do it if you can rewire it up correctly with appropriate cables and conductor identification..

Otherwise you will get the blame at a later date and get the flak for the crap wiring!

5/ If you are going to have a look at it, I would disconnect everything off first of all..

prove all of the components individually to verify they are actually working..

e.g. Inputs and outputs from timer/programmers, room/cylinder stats..

Stick power onto the valve check it drives and that the micro switch is operating..

Confirm you have enough conductors in all of the cables between components so ALL cpcs can be used correctly!

Rewire any missing cables..

Then just join it all back up correctly!

Guinness