more like 50% (only two valves in the system), if it is gravity then you would have/need only one valvethen it's pretty much 90% the valves are working
more like 50% (only two valves in the system), if it is gravity then you would have/need only one valvethen it's pretty much 90% the valves are working
I just got my brother to do the manual actuation on the valve. We can hear the motor and releasing the lever it springs back to the original position.I would not remove the cover ,just move the manual override leaver and you should feel it move the ball valve below ,it might come back on its own but you can lock it in the open position by lifting the leaver at the end of its stroke up or down into the notch at the end,
Unless I am wrong, this to me is a gravity fed system. I have 2 water tanks in the loft, for the hot and cold water. Many years ago I had to change a radiator and I remember, putting a bung on the inlet pipe and a batten under the ballcock arm to stop the water.I think you’ll find this is a gravity fed system. ??
Oh! That's even better!if you buy the same make, but a new one it should fit on the old back box no wiring involved
the small tank should be for the CH and to heat the water in the cylinder by a indirect heating coil in your hot water cylinder, and the larger one should be for the hot water to the taps,Unless I am wrong, this to me is a gravity fed system. I have 2 water tanks in the loft, for the hot and cold water. Many years ago I had to change a radiator and I remember, putting a bung on the inlet pipe and a batten under the ballcock arm to stop the water.
Thanks Poni, I will give it a go tomorrow, after buying a new programmer.there should be two screws at the bottom, undo them half way and lift from the bottom, do make sure it off at the mains first!!
So, does this setup shows that the system is gravity fed or is this irrelevant and that it could be either, gravity or pumped.the small tank should be for the CH and to heat the water in the cylinder by a indirect heating coil in your hot water cylinder, and the larger one should be for the hot water to the taps,
maybe. maybe not. replacing random parts is often an expensive way of fault findingSo, would replacing the programmer help or not?
gravity doesnt have valves, looks like a fully pumped S planI think you’ll find this is a gravity fed system. ??
This is a reply to @Sharpend too, but cannot figure out multi quoting at this early(ish) hourUnless I am wrong, this to me is a gravity fed system. I have 2 water tanks in the loft, for the hot and cold water. Many years ago I had to change a radiator and I remember, putting a bung on the inlet pipe and a batten under the ballcock arm to stop the water.
Now there was me thinking that gravity fed was because the mass of water is fed at gravity pressure ie without the mains pressure and pressurised tank!!
Perhaps I’m not as old as I thought!!
I saw a video on YouTube last might and the guy was illustrating the different system types.This is a reply to @Sharpend too, but cannot figure out multi quoting at this early(ish) hour
Ok, maybe I'm not using the right terminology then. I know a gravity system as how they were with the old coal fires etc. Where there are no valves. The heat just circulates around the hot tank coil (HW only) and the pump is switched on for dragging the heat around the rads (HW & Heating).
The system the in the OP, I know as an open vent pumped s-plan system.
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