Connections to 95mm^2 cable

[davetheglitz]

Blooming big adapt. box ( 95mm is unforgiving) and use Line Taps onto your 25mm . Its ugly but its cheap and does the job.

Brilliant idea Deke. I'm ugly and cheap and do the job so it seems a good match! Thanks.

Never used line taps before - looks like a good option. Can't find any instructions or technical data on them. Do you put the two wires in together and clamp down - or is there a way of joining the clamps together?

I wondered if this might be better - with judicious trimming I suspect the 120mm could take a 95 and 25mm with clamping over 2-4 screws. What do you reckon?

Mechanical Inline Connectors 1000V

 

[Evans Electric]

Yep they'd probably do ...our local DNO use them I noticed.

Line Taps ...imagine a giant version of the brass bit from inside a 30A JB with a brass bolt instead of a grubscrew and a plastic shell that fits around it.

Just make sure you use a really big box to accommodate 95mm . ( Oh I'm assuming its 3ph )

---------- Post Auto-Merged at 21:47 ---------- Previous post was made at 21:41 ----------

Lay one stripped end on top of the other inside the tap , clamp them with the bolt and fit the shell after.

 

[davetheglitz]

Thanks Deke. The fact that the DNO use them gives me a bit of confidence. When and if the time comes I'll report back on how well they work.

Yep it is 3ph - and I reckon a really big adaptable box will be essential!

 

[kerching]

You do know that these are 'uninsulated'...I have used them , or similar, on loads of U/G joints. V good solid connection... :coat

 

[M107]

Cable Line Taps

 

[Evans Electric]

Thanks M8, thems the ones .

 

[batty]

Not sure if it would work but if you got two lugs one for each size of cable and the centre hole the same size you could crimp them then bolt them together and have a piece of heat shrink over the connection all in an adaptable box. I like the look of those other in line connectors.

 

[Steve3948]

Just twist the ends together and wrap up with correct colour tape, making sure you wrap enough round to maintain insulation.

 

[steptoe]

just remember and put clothes pegs between them to stop them touching.

 

[SLIPSHOD & SLAPDASH]

Sigma 95.0 mm Line Tap

Woops, already posted

 

[steptoe]

Sigma 95.0 mm Line TapWoops, already posted

still good to re-confirm previous good advice/links though.

 

[mike_d]

What is the exact kit you are connecting to at each end? Could you not just put "pin crimps" on the end of the cable to reduce the termination size? A 95mm cable with pin crimps on will usually fit into a standard DB incomer, or failing that a larger incomer kit...

Seems unnecessary adding extra joints to the cable to make it easier to connect...

 

[Evans Electric]

In case anyones' not familiar with them , heres a couple of Line Taps .

 

[davetheglitz]

Thanks Deke

 

[jakecameron]

Can't u use a spreader box at either end bolted to the enclosure/switch with couplings between and use 25 mm flex singles? Obviously both crimped would not advise using this size of cable without crimping. Bus bar links in spreader ??

 

[apprentice87]

As has already been stated, these are the things to use...

Cable Size Reducing Pins

Oh yes, you can get flat ones too, give a better contact in the terminal i would have thought....

john..

 

[davetheglitz]

Thanks all -but bear in mind I'm not an industrial electrician - and as such don't have access to the crimping equipment (seems to be some dispute about cheaper versions of crimp tools). One concern I've got is manipulating a 95mm cable. It strikes me that reducing pins sound good in theory but getting this into a 25mm main switch on a DIN rail is a recipe for frustration if not disaster. If not doing this there doesn't seem to be much of an advantage.

Another point to consider is that given the size of the cable I'm not dealing with high current (fused at 63A) - so concerns are a little different to true high current applications.

Due to the rarity of making these connections I think the most economic and easy route for me is to go the line taps or screwed connection in an adaptable box.

 

[wozz]

It just strikes me as a more straight forward way would be suitably sized switchgear with spreader / expansion boxes / slimline lugs if needed than introducing connections. Switchgear would be more costly but less to maintain. Round here buying this amount of gear would entitle you free use of the wholesalers crimper if you dont have one.

 

[davetheglitz]

It just strikes me as a more straight forward way would be suitably sized switchgear with spreader / expansion boxes / slimline lugs if needed than introducing connections. Switchgear would be more costly but less to maintain. Round here buying this amount of gear would entitle you free use of the wholesalers crimper if you dont have one.

Sorry Wozz - as a domestic/light commercial type I feel I'm talking a different language - spreader? expansion box? slimline lugs? Not terms that I understand so bear with me.

I can't help feeling that given the - application the industrial approach is overkill. From what I've seen industrial switchgear is vastly overpriced in comparison to the domestic variants. I'm not looking for large current handling - just keeping volt drop down.

What maintenance would be necessary?

Round here the wholesalers I've asked won't loan crimp gear after so much has gone missing!

I'm sure I must be missing the point - but I can't see where.

 

[jakecameron]

Wether u are domestic or industrial surely it's about getting a big cable size and reducing it to a smaller nor manageable as u say it's VD not current that is issue. For me still the easiest most cost effective would be a spreader box. Which is basically a joint box with an entry for your armour crimp those ends onto straight through mini bus bars for each tp&n then on other side have 25mm flex(easy to work with. Totally would not advise reducing crimps as u say it would be like wrestling an iron bar into a small enclosure and also under ground joint?? No thanks.