Consumer Unit Change

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dave k

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hi all

New here so be gentle, I have been ask to quote for a cu change, at the moment it has two wylex 3036 with three circuits in each and a rcd garage unit, so quiet a bit of a mess. I will probably use a BG cu as quiet like those and price is good but feel I may need extend some circuits to fit. Also may need  move metter over as it smack in the middle.

q1 its it difficult to move meter over it the old dia type

q2 am a better using a din rail box and pushfits , if so which are the best

q3 assuming no extra work is needed what would be a fair price

regards

dave

 
Q1 YOU can't move the meter. Get the DNO to move it. Best if you can do the CU change working around it then they can fit your new tails into the relocated meter.

Q2 either push fit or screw terminals are fine as it's an accesible box.

Q3 Parts plus your mark up. Labour however many hours it takes you to do the job including testing, rectifying any faults found and certification multiplied by your hourly rate.

 
I've given up using BG boards as your customer can easily see how much they cost in the local sheds... I tend to use Schneider boards as I can get them for a very similar price,,, or you could get an SBS DP RCBO unit for a quality install

As for moving the meter, its the suppliers property and they could take you to court if you tamper with it

Regarding your other questions,,, you're doing the job so work it out yourself.. we have to!

 
cheers guys meter can stay as it a big cupboards just cluttered with fuse boxes. regards to tail  am I best putting my new tail into a Henley block or straight to meter they will be under united utilities I think I have never dealt with them yet regarding seal etc, the house is lived in so didn't want power off overnight waiting for meter man.

ps was this the right section to post question like this

regards

Dave

 
as you should know, you cannot touch the meter. so you need to get DNO to either install an isolator for you to connect your new tails to, or get them to isolate then re-energise / connect tails to meter after you finish

 
q3 assuming no extra work is needed what would be a fair price

regards

dave
A fair price is one that leaves you with a reasonable profit and the customer happy with the work you have done....

An unfair price is one that leaves either you working at a loss or at break even or an unhappy customer as you haven't done what they were expecting you to do...

The actual monetary value of this is dependent upon numerous factors...

The individual overheads, travel time, quality of materials, labour charges etc..

Any person working for themselves must have a good understanding of all of these factors...

Otherwise there is a big risk you will soon start working yourself silly with negligible profit!

Customers do NOT always purchase the cheapest goods...

Often they will pay more for a premium service or better quality....

Go have a look at all of the different types of bread there are at your local supermarket..

look at the wide price differences between a single loaf of bread..

some cases it could be double the price..

But they all have their target customer..   and they get sold.. (otherwise the supermarket would not stock them!)

Don't be fooled into thinking electrical work is any different from purchasing any other goods or services...

One person may do a CU change for job for £200 another do a CU change for £400... 

One may be a bit neater, fit better quality CU,  have all cables very neatly fixed or concealled...

the other may be a 'cheap' CU, surface clipped cables in a bit of a rats nest layout...

Both customers may be perfectly happy as they have got what they requested!

Both electricians may be happy they have covered their overheads..

Both are a fair price!  £200 / £400 / £other

Take your pick???

You are the one who knows what type of customer you are aiming for!

So any actual figures quoted on an internet forum, for costing a job carry negligible relevance...

:popcorn

 
If you want to extend outside the cu use these dinrail connectors, these are from Wago.

20130808_130628_zps233e73b6.JPG

As for your other questions

Q1 don't do it

Q2 See above

Q3 How do I know, I've not seen what is required.

 
cheers guys not been self employed for long so a big learning curve,  but thank for the help full advice, sometime you ask a question knowing the answer but would like to hear it again lol

 
+1 on the isolator though be warned different DNO's / suppliers have different ideas on it. Round my way BG will come and do one no problem and are helpful as can be. They often fit one when they decide to fit these new smart meters too (their call /their cost). Even if you call them to come and fit one it's only a few quid and they're quite quick and supply and fit. EDF though............different story, a couple of weeks at least and first they bounce you to UKPN who sigh and say "No, they always do this, phone EDF back!". Eventually it gets done but you have to supply the isolator. On the plus side they say they going to charge then don't add to the bill. 

This is a Wylex isolator (what BG fit) though you might hear it called an "REC" - "Regional Electricity Company" isolator.



 
Of course if you are in SSE land, the vast majority of electricity meters have an isolator built into them, and the output terminals are not sealed. So it's usually straightforward  to do a CU change with no isolation problems and new tails straight into the meter.

Far more important that pratting about arguing over part pee, would be for the government to mandate that all DNO's must provide a point of isolation, whether that be an isolator in the meter, or a separate one. But that would be far too easy and far too logical to make the life of electricians easier and safer, so it will never happen.

 
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What I'm finding on Service Alterations is they want to still use the existing old meter, this is SSE and WPD.

You would think an ideal time to replace what must be 30+ year old meters, but if it aint  broke don't fix and less hassle regarding units used etc.

 
If you want to be legal and feel competent to work this way, fit Henley blocks after meter - it involves working live on meter tails, so rubber gloves, 1000V insulated tools, and being very careful is imperative. Failing that, you must meet the 'seal fairy' which has already removed offending seals on DNO head, so you can pull fuse and not risk death!!

 
If you want to be legal and feel competent to work this way, fit Henley blocks after meter - it involves working live on meter tails, so rubber gloves, 1000V insulated tools, and being very careful is imperative. Failing that, you must meet the 'seal fairy' which has already removed offending seals on DNO head, so you can pull fuse and not risk death!!
thats not 'legal'.

it is reasonable to work dead, therefore does not comply with the 3 requirements of live working under EAWR

 
taking reasonable precautions is legal, you have assessed the risk, are competent, and can therefore proceed in a careful manner - ever seen the DNO guys at work???

 
It could probably be argued that any person who is working alone should never work live, as if something did happen there is no one who could offer any assistance in the event of an accident. With the potential of endangering other people such as a property owner coming back and finding an electrocuted contractor and some exposed live cables by their fuse box. Whereas a person working live as part of a team can have secondary back-up to take any remedial action in the event that things did go wrong. IMHO for the average sole trader working in an empty property or with no other competent persons near by, it would be quite difficult to justify working live. 

Doc H.

 
Can't think which provider it was that started fitting new meters with built in isolators as a trial then stopped on the grounds of cost, (no doubt when the shareholders kicked off)............read it somewhere!

 
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