Converting 2 Gang Wall Socket To Fit Wall Heater

[TristanM]

Hi there,

I need to fit a wall heater in my lounge. Reading the installation instruction it states:

"A means of disconnection must be incorporated in the fixed wiring of the premises in accordance with the wiring rules. The supply circuit to the heater must incorporate a double pole isolating switch having separation of at least 3mm."

My house has recently (within the last 4 years) and have a 2 gang wall socket about 50cm from where the heater is to be fitted. 

I was thinking that I would remove the double wall socket (including the double gang metal back box) and install two singles (a new double single gang metal back box) utilising the same wiring. After this I would be able to install a single fused isolation switch with flex outlet (to heater) and a single wall socket next to it for general use.

Is this possible and legal? Any help would be much appreciated. 

Thanks,

Tris

 

[Apache]

Hello and welcome to the forum.

Do you know the rating of the heater (in watts or amps)?

Are the sockets switched? Some double pole sockets are already double pole isolation.

The issue can come from heating appliances over a certain size should not be on a ring.

 

[TristanM]

Hi there, 
 
Thanks for the reply.
 
HEATER: Dimplex LPP150 @ 1.5kW 
SOCKET: MK 13A 2-Gang DP Switched Plug Socket 
 
(I could not post links due to the 10 post limit)

 

[Apache]

The I would attach a plug and plug it in.

:Salute

 

[TristanM]

LOL. That is what my father says. Thanks.

 

[Apache]

Lets see what some of the proper sparks say. You could go and pick up an oil filled radiator and plug it into the same socket. The oil filled radiators we have at home are rated 2kw!

It wouldn't worry me one bit.

 

[TristanM]

Sounds good thanks. I think I may. Just going to insulate the control wire and wire to a plug.

 

[NozSpark]

Yeh, just plug it in

However be aware that many double sockets are only rated for a maximum 13A load combined between both the sockets so don't go plugging any power hungry appliances onto the other socket...

BTW... over the last 2 days I've been to 2 separate houses where a plug and socket have over heated. One had an oil filled radiator plugged in, the other a tumble dryer

So if the socket is old it may be worth while replacing it for a new one

 

[Andy™]

well you get your 'double pole' switching when you unplug it. and its also got more than the required 3mm gap...

 

[SPECIAL LOCATION]

OR...

if you really.. really.. really.. did want to put a fused spur in....

Don't bother farting around removing whats already there...

Just mount a new one next to the existing double socket..

(after verifying that the double socket is off a ring circuit...  or a correctly fused radial!)

So you would have your heater..

AND still have 2 socket outlets for other use!!

opcorn

Hard-wired heating appliances are a tad safer then plugged in ones..

Not much though ..

just a tad!!

 

[OnOff]

How about putting in a 1+2G box? Have the existing 2G socket and the new FCU next to it. A bit of chopping in then all nice and neat and localised:

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/AP540.html

 

[Sidewinder]

A normal MK twin socket outlet of the Logic Plus range, nice rounded corners ones, are actually rated @ 13A per outlet!

I did not know until I checked the technical spec earlier to respond to this thread, then had to abandon the computer until now.

They also have a 3mm double pole switching gap, so, no need to unplug.

@1.5kW, it is just about OK to plug in IMHO.

As long as it is not the ONLY method of heating for the room?

 

[TristanM]

Thanks for all the advise. Sorry for getting back so late but Tuesday evening I play football.

How about putting in a 1+2G box? Have the existing 2G socket and the new FCU next to it. A bit of chopping in then all nice and neat and localised:

OnOff - This sounds like a great idea, would I be able to wire the single box from the 2G within the regs?

A normal MK twin socket outlet of the Logic Plus range, nice rounded corners ones, are actually rated @ 13A per outlet!

I did not know until I checked the technical spec earlier to respond to this thread, then had to abandon the computer until now.

They also have a 3mm double pole switching gap, so, no need to unplug.

@1.5kW, it is just about OK to plug in IMHO.

As long as it is not the ONLY method of heating for the room?

Sidewinder - Yip that is the socket I have installed. The room has water underfloor heating and only require the wall heater to add a little extra heat as the underfloor battles mid winter.

Thanks again all.

 

[Apache]

Don't mess up the decorating and fiddle with the electrics. Just plug it in. The professionals have confirmed it will be ok.

 

[SPECIAL LOCATION]

Don't mess up the decorating and fiddle with the electrics. Just plug it in. The professionals have confirmed it will be ok.

Just for the record I think you will find that the professionals would confirm that you do not need to mess up the decorating mounting a single gang flush back box adjacent to an existing double gang flush back box...

NO re-decorating required once work complete!!

;

 

[steptoe]

I have mounted flush boxes in polished concrete prefab before with NO decorating, in fact, there is NO way it could have been ever patched up anyway such was the finish,

this back in the days before multi-tools or square box cutters [they are a useless POS anyway imho]

 

[Doc Hudson]

Is this possible and legal? Any help would be much appreciated. 

Thanks,

Tris

Welcome to the forum, what you are suggesting is perfectly legal and acceptable. If you also read the paragraph before the one that you quoted it does say "Through a suitable connection box" So I would not recommend fitting a plug onto the flex as some others have suggested.

Electrical

WARNING- THIS APPLIANCE MUST BE EARTHED

The electrical installation must be carried out by a competent

electrician, and be in strict accordance with the current I.E.E.

regulations for Electrical Equipment in Buildings.

The wires in this mains lead are coloured in accordance with the

following code:

GREEN AND YELLOW: EARTH

BLUE: NEUTRAL

BROWN: LIVE

BLACK: PILOT WIRE

- see also ‘Pilot Wire Connection’

The heater is fitted with a length of flexible cable type H05VV-F

size 4x1.0mm2 for connection to the fixed wiring of the premises

through a suitable connection box positioned adjacent to the

heater.

A means of disconnection must be incorporated in the fixed wiring

of the premises in accordance with the wiring rules. The supply

circuit to the heater must incorporate a double pole isolating

switch having separation of at least 3mm.

Taken from http://www.dimplex.co.uk/assets/kb/operating_instructions/0/Saletto_Instructions_Issue_0.pdf

Doc H.

 

[TristanM]

Sounds good to me. So how would the new box be wired? From the side from the 2 gang sockets?

 

[Sidewinder]

Sorry Doc, @ 1.5kW I'd still whack a plug on it if it was supplementary heating.

IF it was primary heating, different ball game.

 

[Doc Hudson]

The general principal I look at is, plugs and sockets are for portable, movable, lugable or none-fixed appliances. By definition this type of heater (unlike Apaches example which I assume is a free standing, or portable, oil filled radiator), is a fixed appliance that has to be mounted onto a wall. Why waste a good socket outlet that can be used for more portable devices on an appliance that will probably never move during its working lifespan. The actual power rating is only one part of the final end product. If it was me I would probably conceal the supply flex as well by burying it directly into the plaster rather than have a visible trailing flex and 13A plug top dangling by the side of the heater.

Doc H.