Dimplex Storage Heater CXL N

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It's only a rented property so don't want to go overboard, but then again, maybe the cheap stuff is a false economy?

 
If the fuse has gone there is usually a reason for it maybe an element has gone. I personally don't like MK as most of there stuff is made in some far off land but thats general with electric stuff anyway. I personally mainly use contactum as it seems a realible brand.

Batty

 
So you reckon I should check the elements too?

What else could have caused the fuse to blow in the first place?

 
So you reckon I should check the elements too?What else could have caused the fuse to blow in the first place?
An insulation test would be a good idea. What is the kw off the heater. I have been called out to a storage heater where a clever chap had replaced one with a bigger model but had not changed the spur for a 20 amp switch and as the heater was using over 15 amps it was blowing the fuse and the spur.

Batty

 
How do I do an insulation test?

It's a 3.4kW Storage heater with a 2kW convector. The convector seems to be working ok now that I've replaced the switch.

BTW when I turned the input dial from min to max, it didn't click at all. Could this mean a fault with the stat or is it simply just not warm enough to cause the input dial to click? (When I turned the dial on the convector heater, it did click).

(This heater has been installed for a good 7 years without any problems at all).

 
How do I do an insulation test?It's a 3.4kW Storage heater with a 2kW convector. The convector seems to be working ok now that I've replaced the switch.

BTW when I turned the input dial from min to max, it didn't click at all. Could this mean a fault with the stat or is it simply just not warm enough to cause the input dial to click? (When I turned the dial on the convector heater, it did click).

(This heater has been installed for a good 7 years without any problems at all).
You will need a test meter that can do an insulation test. This will test between the element and earth to see if there is a break down in insulation. 3.4kw is a large storage heater that will always be running at max on that fuse. I personally would have had that on a 20 amp switch and had a 16 amp breaker or fuse at the main.

Batty

 
You will need a test meter that can do an insulation test. This will test between the element and earth to see if there is a break down in insulation. 3.4kw is a large storage heater that will always be running at max on that fuse. I personally would have had that on a 20 amp switch and had a 16 amp breaker or fuse at the main.Batty
D'Oh!!

Just got back from Screwfix and bought a 13A switch.

But doing the maths, surely it needs to be higher than 13A (like you say, Batty).

from P=IV;

3400/230 = 14.78 amps

So if the heater is used on full, it will always blow the fuse wont it? Or am I missing somethng?

 
Normally NSH's are fed from a dedicated 16A radial circuit, so all you have to do is provide local isolation by way of a switch so a 20A DP isolator will do!

BTW that power rating will have probably been worked out using 240V, not 230V... it still comes out at just over 14A though!!

 
Normally NSH's are fed from a dedicated 16A radial circuit, so all you have to do is provide local isolation by way of a switch so a 20A DP isolator will do!BTW that power rating will have probably been worked out using 240V, not 230V... it still comes out at just over 14A though!!
I've already bought a 13A switch. So will that be ok to replace the existing one?

(The Economy 7 supply has a 16A MCB. I believe this heater is the only item on the circuit.)

 
I have never seen a 13a DP switch...

Have a look on the back and double check it's rating.

If it is 13a then you will have to get a 20a one as it will always be running at 14a, storage heaters don't have a variable power usage, they just switch the full load on and off.

 
I have never seen a 13a DP switch...Have a look on the back and double check it's rating.

If it is 13a then you will have to get a 20a one as it will always be running at 14a, storage heaters don't have a variable power usage, they just switch the full load on and off.
I've bought one of these.

It's the same as what is fitted already and has been for about 7 or 8 years.

So you reckon I need to put a 20A one in like this?

 
Where do you get 20A fuses from?

They don't seem to have them on the screwfix website.

 
Where do you get 20A fuses from?They don't seem to have them on the screwfix website.
The 20A is just a switched flex connection plate with a neon. There is no fuse in it - the protection is from the MCB.

20A fuses are available but not at that size (AFAIK) or you could be an idiot and put one in a normal plug:)

(http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/WYCFL20.html are used in some older consumer units)

 
Yes, I see what you mean. The 20A DP is simply an isolation point that is capable of having up to 20A running through it.

The 13A DP is only capable of having currents of 13A and therefore not suitable for a 3.4kW heater.

 
Yes, thats it...Get ones without neons though,,,, cause if your tennant stays up or gets up in the night they'll wonder WTF is going on
I disagree Noz - when the neon comes on for my storage heaters I put the dishwasher and washer on and go to bed! Seriously! I am a Yorkshireman :D

 
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