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I'd get the MK one - still better than the 'el cheapo' ownbrands
An insulation test would be a good idea. What is the kw off the heater. I have been called out to a storage heater where a clever chap had replaced one with a bigger model but had not changed the spur for a 20 amp switch and as the heater was using over 15 amps it was blowing the fuse and the spur.So you reckon I should check the elements too?What else could have caused the fuse to blow in the first place?
You will need a test meter that can do an insulation test. This will test between the element and earth to see if there is a break down in insulation. 3.4kw is a large storage heater that will always be running at max on that fuse. I personally would have had that on a 20 amp switch and had a 16 amp breaker or fuse at the main.How do I do an insulation test?It's a 3.4kW Storage heater with a 2kW convector. The convector seems to be working ok now that I've replaced the switch.
BTW when I turned the input dial from min to max, it didn't click at all. Could this mean a fault with the stat or is it simply just not warm enough to cause the input dial to click? (When I turned the dial on the convector heater, it did click).
(This heater has been installed for a good 7 years without any problems at all).
D'Oh!!You will need a test meter that can do an insulation test. This will test between the element and earth to see if there is a break down in insulation. 3.4kw is a large storage heater that will always be running at max on that fuse. I personally would have had that on a 20 amp switch and had a 16 amp breaker or fuse at the main.Batty
I've already bought a 13A switch. So will that be ok to replace the existing one?Normally NSH's are fed from a dedicated 16A radial circuit, so all you have to do is provide local isolation by way of a switch so a 20A DP isolator will do!BTW that power rating will have probably been worked out using 240V, not 230V... it still comes out at just over 14A though!!
I've bought one of these.I have never seen a 13a DP switch...Have a look on the back and double check it's rating.
If it is 13a then you will have to get a 20a one as it will always be running at 14a, storage heaters don't have a variable power usage, they just switch the full load on and off.
The 20A is just a switched flex connection plate with a neon. There is no fuse in it - the protection is from the MCB.Where do you get 20A fuses from?They don't seem to have them on the screwfix website.
I disagree Noz - when the neon comes on for my storage heaters I put the dishwasher and washer on and go to bed! Seriously! I am a YorkshiremanYes, thats it...Get ones without neons though,,,, cause if your tennant stays up or gets up in the night they'll wonder WTF is going on
YesSo the general consensus is to fit a 20A switch?
Fairy snuff,,,I disagree Noz - when the neon comes on for my storage heaters I put the dishwasher and washer on and go to bed! Seriously! I am a Yorkshireman![]()