Dimplex Storage Heater CXL N

[mr. shr]

OK just popped out and got a 20A DP switch WITH neon!!

(Gives indication that the unit is operating so a useful feature I feel.)

 

[mr. shr]

Right so that's the 20A switch now fitted.

Gotta see if the tennant gets a bang in the night (and no, that's not a reference to the red light from the neon!!)

Will know how it goes in the morning.

Thanks for all the help guys.

shr.

 

[batty]

If there is a fault on heater it will blow the mcb. A 13 amp switch spur will probably be ok for a while but it will get hot and eventually pack in. I personally think there is a fault on heater that is why fuse has gone.

Batty

 

[mr. shr]

If there is a fault on heater it will blow the mcb. A 13 amp switch spur will probably be ok for a while but it will get hot and eventually pack in. I personally think there is a fault on heater that is why fuse has gone.Batty

I think the reason why I couldn't remove the fuse holder on the existing switch is because it had progressively got warm and then eventually deformed the plastic inside. These was same discolouration inside.

I agree that there might well still be a fault.

Before I connected the 20A switch, I put my ohm meter across the live and neutral wires to the heater. Got a reading of around 17ohms so I thought that meant all elements are ok.

Using V squared over power: (230^2)/3400 = 15.5ohms so 17ohms is a good reading, yes?

I took that to mean the elements are ok.

 

[batty]

Sounds about right, hopefully a faulty switch is what has caused heater not to work.

 

[mr. shr]

Fingers crossed.

Will find out tomorrow and report back.

 

[mr. shr]

Just popped over to check.

Good news. Heater was working fine. Neon was still on as E7 was still live. (I thnk the E7 clock is out by an hour because of BST).

But I did notice that the new switch I fitted was warm to the touch. I suppose this is normal as it's got about 14amps running through it?

The mcb was also slightly warmer than the other two in the board (the other two mcb's are for another storage heater and the immersion heater. Both were switched of locally so not pulling any current.)

Should I be concerned that the switch on the wall was a bit warm? It is definitely a 20A DP switch. I fitted this one.

 

[Apache]

Just popped over to check.Good news. Heater was working fine. Neon was still on as E7 was still live. (I thnk the E7 clock is out by an hour because of BST).

Yes our's doesn't change in the summer so I have to stay up until 1am to put the dishwasher on

Glad you've got it working

But I did notice that the new switch I fitted was warm to the touch. I suppose this is normal as it's got about 14amps running through it?The mcb was also slightly warmer than the other two in the board (the other two mcb's are for another storage heater and the immersion heater. Both were switched of locally so not pulling any current.)

Should I be concerned that the switch on the wall was a bit warm? It is definitely a 20A DP switch. I fitted this one.

Mine doesn't get warm but them that know will surly chip in. There should be a thermostat so it's not drawing current ALL the time it's live. I'm sure ours use most electric when E7 kicks in and very little after they have charged for a few hours. The more I think about it the less I think I think the Sw connection plate and MCB should be warm

Off the wall suggestion from an amateur - but if the thermostat was broken could this cause overheating and the fuse to blow. OP says it doesn't click on? Mine does (different make of NSH)?

 

[mr. shr]

The input did indeed click this morning around the 3 ish setting.

I believe the reason it didn't click the other day is because it wasn't warm enough during the day (as suggested by andy c here).

But as the heater had been charging up all night, I assume it was hot enough to trigger the thermostat this morning.

If you're switch doesn't warm up, then I think there may be a problem with mine.

Anyone got any ideas?

 

[Andy™]

the switch warming up is probably a loose connection. when stuff runs at full load, it is common for them to get slightly warm, but a 20A switch runnin at 14A shouldnt get noticeably hot.

as mentioned, you can get 20A fuses, but you can get 16MCB's and 15A fuses too, which may be more appropriate

 

[mr. shr]

I double checked that I'd tightened all the terminals properly.

One thing I did notice is that the live wire on the supply had discoloured slightly (the tip that you insert into the terminal.)

Could that indicate anything?

I assumed it was discoloured from the previous 13A switch that was always running at about 14A and hence discoloured everything around it.

The circuit is protected by a 16A mcb.

 

[mr. shr]

Just found this which I guess makes sense.