Funny results with my amaturish testing :)

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and sorry apache - all you wanted was some help with a electrical problem and everyone has hi-jacked the thread with headlight posts!
you started it !!!!! :^O

 
apache - i was thinking of a seperate battery pack... but then i thought if needed, i could mod mine to take an external battery and just have an empty box on the head strapAlso, what do you think of the brightness of the 14 led's? mine only has 5 but is bright enough for just about everything i do
(mine is the one with 5 LEDs too - was a little lazy with my link to be fair!)

I needed a halogen bulb too as blood looks black under LED's and that's no good for surgery

I usually use it on the LEDS. I tried the one you have and mine in a camping shop and like the fact that there's no weight on my neck. The batteries last ages, 4 C cells have a much higher capacity than AA's.

 
I`m with Theo on this one mate - sounds like a switch line. Lets play hunt the neutral. :)

Great game when you cut into a t+e to add to a circuit, and find its actually switch wire. Arrrrgh. Can`t we all use twin brown / red??
the more I think about it the more I think this is what's happened. Andy worrying me there!

Think a spur off the upstairs radial is my best bet! can even use the FCU as the switch. No rooting under insulation and college notes either!

 
(mine is the one with 5 LEDs too - was a little lazy with my link to be fair!)I needed a halogen bulb too as blood looks black under LED's and that's no good for surgery

I usually use it on the LEDS. I tried the one you have and mine in a camping shop and like the fact that there's no weight on my neck. The batteries last ages, 4 C cells have a much higher capacity than AA's.
mines normally only used for 2-3 hours max, and i keep spare batteries in van which is never far away, so dont have much of a problem with it having less capacity.

i didnt get mine from a local shop, so didnt get the chance to try them on or anything

 
and sorry apache - all you wanted was some help with a electrical problem and everyone has hi-jacked the thread with headlight posts!
I am a self confessed torch snob

(also coffee and toilet paper)

:D

 
mines normally only used for 2-3 hours max, and i keep spare batteries in van which is never far away, so dont have much of a problem with it having less capacity.i didnt get mine from a local shop, so didnt get the chance to try them on or anything
me neither. I tried it in a camping shop and bought it for

 
the more I think about it the more I think this is what's happened. Andy worrying me there!Think a spur off the upstairs radial is my best bet! can even use the FCU as the switch. No rooting under insulation and college notes either!
i wasnt trying to worry you! (OK, maybe i was a little bit!)

and why do you need college notes to install SFCU?

so connect the output of the cows heart to the live at SFCU. maybe earth via cows brain. at the light, install a dogs ear between live and neutral for surge protection. neutral can be taken to any horse you can find.

 
i wasnt trying to worry you! (OK, maybe i was a little bit!)and why do you need college notes to install SFCU?

so connect the output of the cows heart to the live at SFCU. maybe earth via cows brain. at the light, install a dogs ear between live and neutral for surge protection. neutral can be taken to any horse you can find.
I'll never get a horse through my loft hatch. Will have to do it the old fashioned way with cable and batten lampholders ;)

 
How about a Sows purse (furse ) for surge protection.

While you are on about torches.

slight change Tesco are flogging Nicad chargers for

 
I want a light in my loft. I'm even allowed to fit one, now i have 2 JB's accessable both with a single wire going in and out (used to extend a circuit?).My volt detector detects them as live. Remove the cover amd my fluke T50 illuminated at 230V (only 1 light) when red probe on either L or N.

When testing between L&N I get nothing but L&E or N&E give me 230V (all lights lit)

What's happeneing here? How can I have a reading with only 1 probe?
Right O patch me old skiny wig lover!Blushing;)

2 jb's single wire..

did you mean a single T&E in each jb or a SINGLE conductor in each jb?

Are you getting the same results at BOTH jb's

or is this between the two jb's?

It certainly sounds like a light switch drop wire you have found,

If one was a neutral you would also get a continuity reading to earth!

uncle Specials "TIP OF THE DAY"

(we need a Harry Hill TV burp "TV highlight of the week type jingle there!)

get a spare 13 plug..

sick a bit of single core flex on to the neutral pin.

plug an extension lead into a nearby socket

TURN THE CU MAIN SWITCH OFF

TURN ALL MCB'S OFF

plug your test plug into the extension lead

take it in the loft.

test continuity between the neutral wire from your test plug and the cables you are looking at.

IF one is a real neutral it will give a continuity within a gnats whisker of zero ohms, as all neutrals come back to same bar at CU!

but with main switch off should be no Neutral - earth continuity

an all MCB's off you shouldn't be reading through any plugged in equipment.

:) ;)

 
Good tip :) erm there are two seperate JB's each only has 1 wire in 1 wire out. (each wire is old colour T&E)
1 CABLE! i.e. T&E is a cable with three conductors

1 wire is a single

i.e. 1 neutral or 1 earth or 1 live!

did you get the same readings at BOTH jb's

cant you trace the wires back to a light fitting?

you will get a proper neutral at a light fitting! ;)

 
1 CABLE! i.e. T&E is a cable with three conductors1 wire is a single

i.e. 1 neutral or 1 earth or 1 live!

did you get the same readings at BOTH jb's

cant you trace the wires back to a light fitting?

you will get a proper neutral at a light fitting! ;)
I will try to trace the wires back. All the lights upstairs are 2 way - wired with a pull cord over the beds. To add confusion.

I can trace back yes. Might have to take a few wires out of some switches and check continuity? I hate 2 way lighting.

Seriously tho - is there any advantage of tapping into the lighting circuit for a 60W bulb over using the upstairs radial with a suitable 3A Sw spur?

It's easier - I can ID the 2.5mm cable!

 
I will try to trace the wires back. All the lights upstairs are 2 way - wired with a pull cord over the beds. To add confusion. loadsa 2 ways!! 99.9% that is waht you are testing across then!

I can trace back yes. Might have to take a few wires out of some switches and check continuity? I hate 2 way lighting.

Seriously tho - is there any advantage of tapping into the lighting circuit for a 60W bulb over using the upstairs radial with a suitable 3A Sw spur?

It's easier - I can ID the 2.5mm cable!
You have got to run up the wall to get into the loft void! :_|

There has GOT to be a perm live and perm neutral already in the loft for the u/s lights:D

 
You have got to run up the wall to get into the loft void! :_| No I use a ladder! You mean to spur from radial? It loops into the loft down into a stud wall. So I have easy access to it. Funny wiring in me very old house.

There has GOT to be a perm live and perm neutral already in the loft for the u/s lights:D
There has - it's just finding it. I have more light switched upstairs than double sockets!

It must have been wired on the cheap by someone who liked to read in bed. Checked out OK when CU changed ~ year ago

 
Patch I think it may be easier for you if you use that radial you mentioned. Switched spur , 3 amp fuse, nice and easy. The other way you could be connecting to the strappers or a live and switch wire etc. You just need to verify that polarity is correct on your lighting, use a neon screwdriver at the switches ( in the on position in case its switching the neutral)

Deke

 
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