Help with installing Meross smart light switch

[postivecharge]

I'm fairly confident I've got this right but I wanted to ask those with experience to check my work, lest I ZAAAAP myself.

Here is my current single switch setup...

Panel

Box

And here's the Meross MSS510H smart light switch wiring diagram: http://bucket-meross-static.meross.com/production/h5/StaticPage/2019/04/22/201904220937088253427.html

So the issue is..

• My current setup has two brown wires going to L1 and one brown wire going to L2 with no neutral.
  
• My smart switch has a Lin, Lout1, and N
  

I think what I need to do is..

• Take the two brown wires that are plugged into L1 and plug them into Lin
  
• Take the one brown wire that is plugged into L2 and plug it into Lout
  
• Uncap one of the unused blue wires (I believe is neutral) from my box and plug it into N
  

That right?

 

[monkey5]

please dont uncap the blues, they are in use.

either get a bit more cable to link from the choc block neutrals to the N terminal or if the N terminal is big enough put them both in there.

browns (L) as you say but please turn the power off if you are going to do it your self

 

[monkey5]

also you might struggle with the depth of the back box, you need to make sure the cables arent trapped or crushed when putting switch back on.

 

[Murdoch]

I mean who still fits 25 mm back boxes these days?

 

[kerching]

I mean who still fits 25 mm back boxes these days?

EVERYBODY who 2 weeks later wants flat plate USB socket combos!

I fitted 42mm boxes on a job a while back....bigger is better unless it's a tax bill, or something that is better being small (except Jimmy Krankie/Knickerless Surgeon)

 

[phil d]

EVERYBODY who 2 weeks later wants flat plate USB socket combos!

I fitted 42mm boxes on a job a while back....bigger is better unless it's a tax bill, or something that is better being small (except Jimmy Krankie/Knickerless Surgeon)

my daughter in law moved into her new house (new to them) and promptly decorated, a few weeks later she rings up she wants some new lights fitting so round I go, not only has she got lights, but also these rather attractive (her words not mine) light switches 'without those horrible screws showing' as she puts it. The only thing is the house is quite old and although it was rewired about 5 years ago it's got 16mm switch boxes! So now I have to remove the boxes and fit deeper ones without damaging the decor, ffs, it took me ages, WHY, didn't she either tell me she was going to do all this before she decorated, or ask before she bought the flaming switches!

She's a heart of gold this girl, but she doesn't think, she wanted power to a brick outbuilding to put her dryer in, as it happened I was fitting some armoured at work and needed about 85 mtr of 16mm, so I just ordered 100m and took the excess home, work also provided the main isolator at the front end and also the sockets and stuff for the outbuilding. She was made up, when she asked what she owed me I just told her to get me a packet of fags, well you don't charge family.

A couple of weeks later she rings me up, "my mate has bought a house like ours and wants power to that shed, I've told her you'll sort it" . When I said I'd have to look at it and give her a price she replied she'd already done that, "mind you I was a bit cheeky, I told her it would cost two packets of fags, after all she isn't family". Needless to say the job didn't get done.

 

[SPECIAL LOCATION]

• Take the two brown wires that are plugged into L1 and plug them into Lin
  
• Take the one brown wire that is plugged into L2 and plug it into Lout
  
• Uncap one of the unused blue wires (I believe is neutral) from my box and plug it into N
  

That right?

No..

You have got three cables..

(1)  Live & Neutral supply coming from the Consumer Unit, (or previous switch/light)

(2)  Live & Neutral supply continuing on to the remaining switches/light in the circuit.

{The above two browns are the ones in the L1 of your current switch.

(3) Live & Neutral going to the specific light that the switch turns on.

{The above single brown is the one in L2 of your current switch}

All of the three blues MUST be kept together to maintain neutral continuity to the rest of the circuit. 

{They are NOT unused, just not required in the current switch itself}

If you split then you will find that lights in other rooms stop working!

[ All three earths are common together in the back-box earth stud ]

As a side note:-

The Meross wiring diagram shows the wrong colour for the Live out (Blue),

Your switch has the correct colour (Brown)

You need to add an extra Blue neutral strap from the existing three blues to the new switch neutral!

Guinness

 

[postivecharge]

Wow thanks for all the feedback! It's so great to have this many professionals share their thoughts, glad I didn't just have a go.

So @monkey5 and @SPECIAL LOCATION to recap..

I'm correct with where the brown wires should go, however I need to run an addtional bit of wire from the block with the neutrals?

And would I simply wire it in right into the existing connector block highlighted in below?

 

[Murdoch]

Wondering how you might connect it comes after fitting a deeper back box .... 44 mm would be my choice

 

[postivecharge]

Follow up..

As luck would have it my neighbor had an electrician over this afternoon for a job and I pinched him when he was done so it's all sorted.

But everyone was right about the box, too shallow, he ended up ripping it out.

 

[monkey5]

too many times ive seen dimmer switches or flat plat squashed in to a box far too small, 

pleased your sorted, for someone who knows what there doing it should have taken longer to get the tools out the van then sort.

Wayne