Ir testing

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m4tty

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Hi,

when doing ir testing for say a ring and you can't get to unplug a cabinet lighting system. Is it ok to take the bulbs out and leave plugged in as your removing the link between line and neutral ?

Thanks

 
Ae there any transformers for the cabinet lights or are they 230v

 
If you cant remove all loads from circuit just test between L&N connected together and earth. when testing circuits between L-N il always do the test at 250v then step up to 500v if clear. means if you missed something plugged in youre not gonna fry it

 
In the situation you describe you have removed the load (the lamps are the load not the fitting) so then you could do your IR test. Don't think it would be any different than doing IR on a radial lighing circuit where you remove the lamps not the fittings. (But I may get shot down for this line of thought) :coffee

 
Is it was me then I'd probabl remove the lamps and make sure the fitting was turned on... and then do my IR checks.

If I found a problem then then unplugging that light fitting would be my first port of call!

 
Mikel is quite correct and he has a cracking picture too.ROTFWLROTFWLROTFWL

 
Hi All,

Ive been doing some IR testing today and have 0.32MOhm between Line and Neutral on upstairs ring and cannot find anything plugged in. Line to Earth was 12.6MOhm and Neutral to Earth was 12.9MOhm. Any ideas?

Cheers

 
Hi All,Ive been doing some IR testing today and have 0.32MOhm between Line and Neutral on upstairs ring and cannot find anything plugged in. Line to Earth was 12.6MOhm and Neutral to Earth was 12.9MOhm. Any ideas?

Cheers
0.32Mohm is 320kohm - are those cabinet lights fluorescent by any chance? You could be measuring the gear.

12.6Mohm L&N / E is fine, just go with that.

 
Cheers pc the only problem is I've got to fill out an eic for board change for assessment so need to fill in both boxes for ir tests, between live conductors and between live conductors and earth so I've got to work out what's causing the low Reading. Would this likely be central heating gear? Thanks for replying

 
Matt are you getting this signed off by building control? I've spoken to a few people registered with elecsa and they said, for their assessment, they wouldn't accept any work that isn't alreay signed off....

 
Matt are you getting this signed off by building control? I've spoken to a few people registered with elecsa and they said, for their assessment, they wouldn't accept any work that isn't alreay signed off....
Hi Chris,

Sorry I didnt respond earlier. Ive spoken to Elecsa and they said its up to you whether you inform LABC and their assessor wont check. I asked whether I would fail the assessment if I didnt notify and they said I wouldnt and I could notify as my first job.

Cheers

 
Matt - I always put Line to Neutral Insulation as a limitation. As long as you note it down you will be fine. I don't like to risk breaking anything on circuit.

 
You mean you weren't able to isolate the CH wiring???It really needs to be on a switched fused spur (I think sockets & plugs are allowed by gas regs now??)
Hi Noz,

It was the CH and after emptying the whole airing cupboard I found the FCU for the heating. So it is fused down at 3A like it should be but my dads losing the plot abit (getting old) and couldnt remember how he had done it as he installed the whole CH for his house.

Cheers

 

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