Low voltage downlights

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Obnox

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Alrite, wee problem. I installed some new low voltage downlights in a bedroom along with the existing light. I took a neutral from the old light to the transformer and a Live from the loop to a new 2 gang switch and up to the transformer. I was getting voltage at the transformer but nothing after it?

To prove the downlights worked, I took out the switch and put it straight onto the bedroom circuit and it worked fine!

Anybody had this problem before? I'm stumped!

Cheers

 
have you tested the new part of the circuit? Did you prove polarity ? How did you terminate your cables from the ceiling rose to the spot, and from the switch?

 
I didn't test it.

I ran a cable from the downlights to L1 in the switch and linked the 2 commons and took a neutral from the bedroom light.

Sorry i just thought if i was getting 240v it should work but what does the polarity test do?

 
The polarity test tests that your live is being switched and not your neutral.

 
you mentioned that the light worked when directly connected to the ceiling rose loop feed, so trannie works.

I think it is how you have your live returning from the sw to your new light. did you run a new cable to your new sw, from your downlight? are you getting your perm feed from sw or ceiling rose?

 
you mentioned that the light worked when directly connected to the ceiling rose loop feed, so trannie works. I think it is how you have your live returning from the sw to your new light. did you run a new cable to your new sw, from your downlight? are you getting your perm feed from sw or ceiling rose?
Sorry I dont understand what you mean?

I ran 2 new cables, heres a rough drawing.



 
Sorry I dont understand what you mean?I ran 2 new cables, heres a rough drawing.

You are supposed to switch the supply to the transformer not the out going side of the transformer, why have you run two cables from the switch?

leave it to a professional.headbangheadbangheadbang

 
You are supposed to switch the supply to the transformer not the out going side of the transformer, why have you run two cables from the switch? leave it to a professional.headbangheadbangheadbang
Sorry, ****ty drawing, ive ran 1 cable from the switch to the transformer, and 1 cable(neutral) from the bedroom light to the transformer.

I need to learn this stuff mate, no point in gettin a pro in.

 
Sorry, ****ty drawing, ive ran 1 cable from the switch to the transformer, and 1 cable(neutral) from the bedroom light to the transformer.I need to learn this stuff mate, no point in gettin a pro in.
Ok so we have decided you need to switch the live before the tranny and take a neutral from the tranny to the fitting.

What connections have you on the switch? A simple 1 gang 1 way would do with a common and L1 (sometimes referred to L1 & L2).

I would take live from the loop to a junction box (JB) and personally I would have picked up the neutral there unless the loop is in the switches. In the JB you want to run 2 core and earth to the switch, you have 4 wires (live in, switched live out and 2 wires for the switch drop). Wire live and a brown together in 1 terminal, connect the other end of the brown to common terminal of switch. Sleeve the blue on the switch drop brown (both ends) and connect this to the L1 terminal in the switch and join the switched live out and this sleeved blue (now brown) a second terminal of the JB.

Now connect the sw live to the live in for the tranny and the neutral in the appropriate place. You have switched the supply now.

Just make sure you are picking up a live from the loop and not a switched live as it's awfully embarrassing.

Do you see what I mean?

 
What connections have you on the switch? A simple 1 gang 1 way would do with a common and L1 (sometimes referred to L1 & L2).
Pache`: L1 &L2 are the two "switched" terminals from the "C" - common terminal. If you connect 1 way switching between L1 & L2 you`ll get absolutely nothing, as these two terminals can NEVER be in contact with each other!

Yes??

n.b. Obnox: If you haven`t tested, and don`t understand the need for a polarity test, then, with all due respect, you are not competent to do this work.

I accept that you "need to learn this stuff" - the best way is NOT to try & just "do it" - you need to go on a course.

KME

 
Correct Mr KME, Sir. :p

Septic - Be nice! :)

 
Yes - But this is a friendly forum, Mr KME, Sir - And I am proud of that and that is just one of the things that make us stand out from the "Others".

 
Pache`: L1 &L2 are the two "switched" terminals from the "C" - common terminal. If you connect 1 way switching between L1 & L2 you`ll get absolutely nothing, as these two terminals can NEVER be in contact with each other!Yes??
I have a switch in my house with the upper terminal marked L1 and the lower L2. No common

I can take a pic?

 
Sorry, ****ty drawing, ive ran 1 cable from the switch to the transformer, and 1 cable(neutral) from the bedroom light to the transformer.I need to learn this stuff mate, no point in gettin a pro in.
sorry, but septiclecky's advice of getting a pro in my be a good idea. from quickly reading your posts and advice given, your seem way out of your depth doing this.

fair enough if you need to learn this stuff, but you cant learn everything over a forum. there is a lot more to electrics than simply adding a few wires here and there.

if you dont have the equipment to test polarity, how to do plan on testing R1R2 and Zs. even if you do someone manage to test this, do you know what the readings mean, and do you know where to find the information to say wether its safe or not?

 
I have a switch in my house with the upper terminal marked L1 and the lower L2. No commonI can take a pic?
different manufacturers switches are marked differently.

common markings are L1, L2 & L3 or com, L1 & L2

not a very good diagram, but should give you some idea

L1

L2 L3

crabtree are this marking. iirc, both 1 way and 2 way switches have all 3 markings, but there isnt a teminal in L3 on the 1 way

or

com

L1 L2

 
Agree with your sentiment, Mr. Admin, sir - as many of us stated on another thread recently.

However, Septic is quite correct; as is Andy ( I can`t do the tee-em thingy). The O/P appears woefully out of his / her depth; and no lifejacket to be seen.

Not really the best situation to be in when you learn you can`t really swim!

No offence is intended, I`m sure, by any of these replies; and I sincerely hope that Mssr Obnox isn`t offended by our candour.

`Pache - Okay, I`ll believe you. Do you happen to know the make of this oddly-designated switch?

KME

Andy - okay! I`ve never seen a switch with those markings, to my knowledge :OBlushing Maybe I just don`t look too often anymore, or summat!

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Andy - okay! I`ve never seen a switch with those markings, to my knowledge :OBlushing Maybe I just don`t look too often anymore, or summat!
well you now know for next time you use them!

ive seen many DIYers get this wrong before - old switch being marked L1 L2 L3 and new switch com L1 L2. so the wire old L1 and L2 to new L1 and L2, and (unsurprisingly), it doesnt work.

 
A Volex 2G 2W used as a 2G 1W

See attached image.

I have removed a Crabtree 1G 1W and it is marked L1, L2 but can't get in to get a picture.

Please correct me if I am wrong but NOT if I'm right! ;)

switch.jpg

 
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