Marking Up Spotlights

Talk Electrician Forum

Help Support Talk Electrician Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
The brightest a under cabinet lights i have found are these.  I usually always use these.

http://www.screwfix.com/p/lap-39006-cabinet-link-striplight-white/39006

I get them from a local wholesaler.

Amazingly bright, fantastic for working under. Not cheap. Customers love the light they give.

The stick on strip stuff is not as bright but is neater. I have had LED strip of similar specification from 2 different manufacturers and one has been a lot brighter. There is a local manufacturer to me  http://www.leyton-lighting.co.uk/ who have made me some custom stuff before. A lot more then the rubbish on ebay, but a lot better quality. If the stick on strip is not bright enough you can always run more strips in. I always use IP rated as i feel cleaning non IP rated would affect it.

Kitchen job i am on, the kitchen company routers in a groove and supplies the LED in one of those cover systems so it mounts flush and neat under the cabinet. The downside is that its not that bright, which is why i have made the ceiling lights mega bright. Had i fitted my cabinet lights i would not have been worried about the perfect spread of the downlights (so there is perfect light to work under). As there is 2 seating areas with hanging lights for one effect, under cab lights for another, and 2 areas of downlights, all dimable, means the effect in the room can be dramatically changed.

Those triangular LED lights i think are terrible. Bad spread, look awful. I never fit them but have had to rip out or sort out many fitted by kitchen fitters

 
I have done a few of these jobs where not wanting floor up to do recessed lights. As you say ceiling is being plastered i just cut a 6inch wide slot theough the centre of the room length ways across joists

..... this makes it easier for plasterer to repair, easier to drill joists and run cables and assists with measuring up and setting out.

Hope this makes sense.

 
For under pelmet lighting I tend to use LED tape,,, the only set that I've had a problem with is my parents (failed leds)... let's hope it's just a faulty batch

The only thing to ensure is that you clean the underside of the cabinet,,, but not with citrus wipes as it leaves a film that the tape won't stick to

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Can you have two loads of a cooker switch as the job and cooker are now going to be separated and he doesn't want me to put a new 6 mil in from the mains board . And thanks for the comments

 
The hob is looped of the cooker at the connection unit so if I move the oven to another place the connection unit for the job has no power

 
Unless the cupboards are like a job I've just first fixed & are boxed to the ceiling.......................then they go on the floor behind the kick panel.
and if they are a plug in type transformer, then since its under the unit and 'out of the way', you dont need to waste a backbox for the socket...

 
If i have an area 4m long and want to mount 2 lights, i would start with them 1m from the the end with a 2m gap between the lights. My theory is so the angle of each light covers the same area. Then when i find out out where the joists are, and see how it looks to the eye is how i make my final decision.

To find the joist i go to the edge of the room and make small  holes with a drill to locate (3mm ish), find 2, check distance, mark off the rest and confirm position with them by using small drill again.

To get cables past joist from below i cut 100mm hole over the edge of the joist at the side or middle of the room. I then drill through joist or if i have to notch and metal plate over the top. To repair the hole i screw the 100mm hole back into the joist. Scrim and easy fill if you have to repair.

Kitchen job i am currently doing, i took in a test fitting on a plug in to make sure i got perfect spread (no darker areas), as they wanted good coverage in working areas, and i also used different sealed LED to what i normally use, which had a different spread to what i normally use.  The average job i just whack em in and people are happy.
That will look dim and shite.

Rule of thumb I use is 800mm from the "ends" and no more than 1.2m apart - so using 4 meters it would be 3 lights:

0.8, 1.2, 1.2. 0.8

and watch out for the joists, cables and pipes above

 
If i have an area 4m long and want to mount 2 lights, i would start with them 1m from the the end with a 2m gap between the lights. My theory is so the angle of each light covers the same area. Then when i find out out where the joists are, and see how it looks to the eye is how i make my final decision.

To find the joist i go to the edge of the room and make small  holes with a drill to locate (3mm ish), find 2, check distance, mark off the rest and confirm position with them by using small drill again.

To get cables past joist from below i cut 100mm hole over the edge of the joist at the side or middle of the room. I then drill through joist or if i have to notch and metal plate over the top. To repair the hole i screw the 100mm hole back into the joist. Scrim and easy fill if you have to repair.

Kitchen job i am currently doing, i took in a test fitting on a plug in to make sure i got perfect spread (no darker areas), as they wanted good coverage in working areas, and i also used different sealed LED to what i normally use, which had a different spread to what i normally use.  The average job i just whack em in and people are happy.
I do pretty much the same as above, the only thing is I also drill 20mm hole in the "biscuit" bit that will come out and poke me camerahttp://www.maplin.co.uk/p/inspection-camera-with-colour-24-inch-lcd-monitor-n92gw and have a look first. This way I can see if there is a heating pipe in the way (this can be found with the drill but it is better with the camera) or other cables (that might be damaged) and often I can see junction boxes that I can upgrade to wago MF ones

Plus I can see exactly the layout of the joists, which allows me to shuffle the whole grid over a bit if needs be.

In this situation the more information you can get before making the big holes the better. You can get those cameras for a bout thirty quid too.

My advice would be not to be to gung ho as you might hit something you regret.

BTW I have just fitted 31 LED downlights to one house this week :)

I am using robus sealed dimmable 9W ones and they give 400 odd lumens and that is as bright as you would want it. 

 
Top