Micc Tips

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I'm more interested in what you use that big mallet for ?
Ah   I bought that to knock some sense into Steppers 
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Canoeboy said:
Oh dear, all that live working stuff, are you on the midnight generator repossession gang :slap

Are they Facom ? I have a couple of nice sets of them  :innocent
thats only a small part of the kit!!

I think the red stuff is actually an offshoot of CK

Orange is a mixture of IT, Bodds, Britool, Facom, Sibille, and possibly some Salisbury

plenty more pics but I dont want to hijack the thread totally.

I was actually trying to find some rusty pics for Das Boot...but they evade me at present

sent from my laptop so I can    :innocent :coat

 
Hi miss Sweden.

When I got taught in collage I was told to strip back the copper using various striping tools as you know how to use each one with ease. Always clip your conductors at slightly different lengths first to help get your pot over them. Pull your conductors taught with pliers when your pot is on and compound is in your pot as to help not get conductors touching.

 
Miss s. If you want to borrow some MICC/MIMS tools let me know, you can drop in an pick them up or I can drop offto your bloke at Berks  Arms.

I have :

Joi stripper

Rotar stripper

Potting tools

Bar stripper

Ringing tool

Crimp tools

Also have some pots glands compound and seals.

 
Miss s. If you want to borrow some MICC/MIMS tools let me know, you can drop in an pick them up or I can drop offto your bloke at Berks  Arms.

I have :

Joi stripper

Rotar stripper

Potting tools

Bar stripper

Ringing tool

Crimp tools

Also have some pots glands compound and seals.
Thank you so much M107! Really kind of you to offer. We've only done a little bit of MICC this time but if we do get any bigger projects next year then I'd love to take you up on the offer :)

Hi miss Sweden.

When I got taught in collage I was told to strip back the copper using various striping tools as you know how to use each one with ease. Always clip your conductors at slightly different lengths first to help get your pot over them. Pull your conductors taught with pliers when your pot is on and compound is in your pot as to help not get conductors touching.
Really good tips, thank you :D

I finally managed to get it right. Took me one and a half lesson to terminate one cable! I found it really hard to set the blade on the strippers to cut to exacly the right depth. On the one occasion when I did get that right on the first attempt then I had a dead short when I tested it instead : headbang

But right now:

misssweden - 1 MICC - 0 :D

 
done a load a few years back where shrouds were prohibited, no idea why, temperature maybe, [?] that was why we were using MICC in the first place.
Used to do some stuff at a power station, SWA glands were never allowed to be shrouded so they could routinely inspect the gland nut to comfirm integrity..

Could be the same there???

I do quite a lot in pyro, mostly council blocks but also some in fire stations. Mostly repairs to be honest but I've had a few install jobs.

My main advice would be to be patient with it, make sure you don't have a burr where you ring it before you strip it, I've heard loads of bad words cos people have assumed it's ok and gone ahead and glanded it without checking. Above all mega it, mega it and mega again at all stages.

 
Sorry to be pedantic Eggster, but Miss Sweden is a student, and because of that, it is, in My view, unwise to use shortened words like mega, Megger etc to describe a form of testing. No college or exam board would tolerate such terms being used as parts of answers on exam sheets.

I realise that on site it can be different when everyone chatting about it is qualified, but students here are not, and it would be bad practice for electricians here to use incorrect terminology.

I apologise if it appears that I am barking Eggster, I am not, have a nice day. :Salute

Andy Guinness

 
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I've used it loads in churches all over the place but haven't used it in a while make sure you give the conductors a decent tug so that they don't short and obviously test to prove it also I find that it loves the moisture in the air so you will always need to cut a bit off before making off the ends

 
Read in a book today that MIMS is not suitable for use with discharge lighting, due to the voltage on start up, never heard of this before anyone else? 

 
Its installed all over Chester city centre feeding wall mounted 150 watt SON-T lamps on the historic buildings, Ive also used it on other jobs in different areas again feeding HPS discharge lighting.

 
Read in a book today that MIMS is not suitable for use with discharge lighting, due to the voltage on start up, never heard of this before anyone else? 
Rings a vague and distant bell , Wozz .

I know you can get problems with capacitence building up sometimes.   Had a low volt thermostat  24v outside a boiler room , it was at that time , a modern solid state jobby instead of the old bi-metalic strip . It kept popping , we found that the voltage was higher at the stat than when it left the panel . 

 
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