To get rid of the condensation you could bake it and then fill it with nitrogen instead?
It's a bit extreme but it's what we used to do with avionics ✈
It's a bit extreme but it's what we used to do with avionics ✈
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Yes.. As I suspected, a bit more complicated than is possible at home. But thankyou anyhowOk.. Heres what we used to do..
Our instruments were put in an oven and connected to a vaccuum pump, after they had been in there a while (some up to 4 hrs) they were filled with nitrogen, purged again and refilled with nitrogen again. Then the instruments were sealed.
My corner shop may be able to assist........Yes.. As I suspected, a bit more complicated than is possible at home. But thankyou anyhow
Sidewinder. I found some screw type plastic vents is this what you meant? Also I haven't found a source of less than 5000.
Binky, will give that a go but am not sure I can make it fully air tight with the compression gland and the cable poking out the top?
- VENTING PLUG, IP66/IP69K, BLK, M12
- Accessory Type: Venting Element
- For Use With: Enclosures
- SVHC: No SVHC (16-Jun-2014)
- AF Size - Metric: 17mm
- Colour: Black
- Thread Length: 10mm
- Thread Size - Metric: M12
- Protection for hermetically sealed electro-technical and electronic enclosures
- Protects against condensation water from alternating temperature and pressure
- Pressure, continuous ventilation and adaption of the inner pressure
- Hydrophobic and oleophobic PES-membrane
- Body: PA6
- O ring: nitrile rubber
- Membrane: polyether sulphone PES
- Typical air flow: 90 to 130ml/min/cm²
- Protection grade: IP66
- Operating temperature: -40°C to 100°C
warm air expands so won't cause a vacuum, when it cools again it may draw a little bit back in depending on sealing, but it is unlikely to suck much mositure in and any heat will help dry things out.But then when the lamp is on and heat generated it will cause a vacuum in the jar which will then draw in moisture/air where it can. The stuffing gland on the back it the prime location, or even the lid.
As sidewinder said you can get glands that stop vacuum.
That information was provided to me from Hunza Outdoor Lighting with regard to why some outdoor lighting fittings although perfectly sealed had water inside.We have been called to so many garden installs with ingress of water in the fitting some with an inch of water.warm air expands so won't cause a vacuum, when it cools again it may draw a little bit back in depending on sealing, but it is unlikely to suck much mositure in and any heat will help dry things out.
Think about it - unless the volume of the fitting was huge then the air couldn't hold enough water vapour to produce an inch of water.That information was provided to me from Hunza Outdoor Lighting with regard to why some outdoor lighting fittings although perfectly sealed had water inside.
We have been called to so many garden installs with ingress of water in the fitting some with an inch of water.
Hunza have obviously never studied Physics then. If you have an inch of water in the fitting, then it's leaking. I used to build Naval weapons, including torpedo tails, there's not much about sealing equipment I haven't come across. We fitted Hunza ground lights in Salcombe last year,defo no moisture in them this year. Biggest culprit for water ingress is dirt on the seals, very hard to avoid on a building site or generally surrounded by dirt. it also helps if you allow for drainage around the fitting, ie soak-away principle.That information was provided to me from Hunza Outdoor Lighting with regard to why some outdoor lighting fittings although perfectly sealed had water inside.
We have been called to so many garden installs with ingress of water in the fitting some with an inch of water.
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