Don't know how many guys on here use them on everyday working but if so, anyone got a decent brand to recommend that gives accurate readings? Seen a lot but priced a bit too cheap to believe their anymore than a volt/continuty tester. Thanks!
Multimeters
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Fluke 87V or 289 for me from current product.
See MM for a forum discount, and for a bit more detailed advice, as it really depends on what you want to measure, and to what level of accuracy.
See MM for a forum discount, and for a bit more detailed advice, as it really depends on what you want to measure, and to what level of accuracy.
Do alot of work on controlled entry systems, needs to pretty accurate when measuring ohms over long distance runs etc basically a meter that doesn't ******** me on the job haha, thanks alot will have a look at the fluke range!
I have a fluke 77-II had it for years now,
But, TBH, for what you want to measure youd need a proper.continuity tester, by the sounds of it.
But, TBH, for what you want to measure youd need a proper.continuity tester, by the sounds of it.
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Fluke 73 for me, years old, battered as hell, but reliable.
the cheap ones tend to get very inaccurate when the batteries are getting low, but don't warn you, and eat batteries like they are going out of fashion.
but as already stated they are NOT for insulation or continuity checks on electrical installations, use the right tool for that.
the cheap ones tend to get very inaccurate when the batteries are getting low, but don't warn you, and eat batteries like they are going out of fashion.
but as already stated they are NOT for insulation or continuity checks on electrical installations, use the right tool for that.
You need to be sure what you want to measure and to what spec.
The 80 series models had open circuit voltages that were <1.3V d.c. on some models & <7.9V d.c. on others.
Below you can see that the resistance specs on the 289 & 1653 vary greatly. - No you can't it won't display so I've deleted it!
You need to remember that testing for BS7671 requires in 621.2.1 that the testing OCV is between 4 & 24V d.c., & the SCC is > 200mA, a range of 0.2 to 2Ω with a resolution of 0.01Ω.
BS EN 61557-4 applies as revised for new equipment.
Thus the 289 would not be suitable officially for testing for compliance with BS7671.
However, I use one regularly for fault finding, but not for compliance certification!
Resistance Specs.pdf
The 80 series models had open circuit voltages that were <1.3V d.c. on some models & <7.9V d.c. on others.
Below you can see that the resistance specs on the 289 & 1653 vary greatly. - No you can't it won't display so I've deleted it!
You need to remember that testing for BS7671 requires in 621.2.1 that the testing OCV is between 4 & 24V d.c., & the SCC is > 200mA, a range of 0.2 to 2Ω with a resolution of 0.01Ω.
BS EN 61557-4 applies as revised for new equipment.
Thus the 289 would not be suitable officially for testing for compliance with BS7671.
However, I use one regularly for fault finding, but not for compliance certification!
Resistance Specs.pdf
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get yersel a neon then,
will save you masses of time,
remember though, you shouldnt be doing it live,
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Fluke 113 for me for everyday stuff. True RMS, idiot proof AND I am the idiot to prove it!
TBH,
For fault finding on general electrical installations a neon is almost all you need for voltage identification, or something like a KEW 1700/1710.
A DMM is an overkill TBH, it only comes into its own on control / automation systems.
What difference does 220 or 250 V really make?
For fault finding on general electrical installations a neon is almost all you need for voltage identification, or something like a KEW 1700/1710.
A DMM is an overkill TBH, it only comes into its own on control / automation systems.
What difference does 220 or 250 V really make?
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Please tell me how to test a DEAD circuit with a neon? :innocentget yersel a neon then,
will save you masses of time,
remember though, you shouldnt be doing it live,
Im loving step 6Canoeboy said:
just not sure what version though, :|
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I wasn't meaning how to test if a circuit is dead, with a neon (that's what the flick test is for) :innocent
I was meaning tell me how to find a wiring fault with a neon, on a dead circuit.
I was meaning tell me how to find a wiring fault with a neon, on a dead circuit.
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Could someone correct me if I am incorrect, but was
it the case that the only Multimeter suitable (and safe)
to use for mains testing was the AVO 8 or 7 because
it, unlike so many other meters, had short circuit
protection?
it the case that the only Multimeter suitable (and safe)
to use for mains testing was the AVO 8 or 7 because
it, unlike so many other meters, had short circuit
protection?
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The old analogue avo's had a trip, that was actually a mechanical release if the pointer hit the endstop a bit too hard. I still have my Avo 8 (and my wind up Megger) but don't use them any more.
Most decent digital mutimeters have protection and won't self destruct if say you connect them to 240V while on thehms range (how do I know that) but I doubt the cheap ones are so well protected.
Most decent digital mutimeters have protection and won't self destruct if say you connect them to 240V while on the
hms range (how do I know that) but I doubt the cheap ones are so well protected.
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The fluke meters are protected against 1000V wrt earth, that is between probes I believe even on the Ohms range
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