ok, this thread needs clearing up a bit so here goes. n.b. this could turn out loooong.
Firstly, switches come in many sizes - 4, 8, 16, 24 port. For the price, your best getting one that
a) has enough ports for your current plans
B) has a few extra fo future development
I find the netgear switches to be awsome value and rock solid in use.
If your only planning on max speeds 100Mb/s then go for
8 port:
Netgear FS108 8 Port 10/100 Ethernet Network Switch FS108 (0606449037616) | eBay
16 port:
Netgear ProSafe 16-Port Fast Ethernet Switch - FS116 | eBay
or gigabit speeds use
8 port:
Netgear GS108 ProSafe 8-Port Gigabit Desktop Switch | eBay
16 port:
Netgear ProSafe 16-Port Gigabit Desktop Switch - GS116 (0606449035001) | eBay
Obviously these are just examples, shop around for best prices.
Next, Cables. Unless absolutely every point requires 2 points (and hence cables) dont bother with shotgun cable. Get a 305m box of cat5e utp (you could also look into cat6 for more future proofing). Run 1 cable per point and YES you can use this stuff for phone sockets. If you dont plan load of points then terminate the cable at the router/switch end into some of these
PACK of 2 MODULAR QUAD FACE PLATEs in WHITE PLASTIC | eBay
You fit 4 modular jacks into each. You your chasing cable in these fit onto standard double metal backboxes. If you trunking, they also fit double surface patresses. Then use some 1m (or more if required) premade patch cables to connect from these places to your switch. I say to use these as they are made using stranded utp, The box you buy will be solid core and more prone to mechanical damage. Again I'd advise using faceplates and patch leads at the appliance end. Yes, you can use the IDC insertion tool to make off the modular jacks, it's actually the right tool
Router, If you don't already have the router then you wont know how many ports are on it. Some have 4 others only 1.
If 1 then everything connects to switch, then switch to the router.
If 4 then you have options. The 4 ports are essentially a built in switch, if anything has high internet requirements (possibly server depanding on what it is used for) then connect direct to router. If multiple puters are using the network intensively then the standalone switch could become a bottleneck. Though I really doubt you will have such problems. Also, if the sever is more to server files, data to the puters then connect it to the switch as it will manage multiple connections better rather than having to send the data through a single port for the router to then pass it round some more.
Told you this could get long, anyways, think that clears up a bit. Any other q's. You know where I am...
Firstly, switches come in many sizes - 4, 8, 16, 24 port. For the price, your best getting one that
a) has enough ports for your current plans
B) has a few extra fo future development
I find the netgear switches to be awsome value and rock solid in use.
If your only planning on max speeds 100Mb/s then go for
8 port:
Netgear FS108 8 Port 10/100 Ethernet Network Switch FS108 (0606449037616) | eBay
16 port:
Netgear ProSafe 16-Port Fast Ethernet Switch - FS116 | eBay
or gigabit speeds use
8 port:
Netgear GS108 ProSafe 8-Port Gigabit Desktop Switch | eBay
16 port:
Netgear ProSafe 16-Port Gigabit Desktop Switch - GS116 (0606449035001) | eBay
Obviously these are just examples, shop around for best prices.
Next, Cables. Unless absolutely every point requires 2 points (and hence cables) dont bother with shotgun cable. Get a 305m box of cat5e utp (you could also look into cat6 for more future proofing). Run 1 cable per point and YES you can use this stuff for phone sockets. If you dont plan load of points then terminate the cable at the router/switch end into some of these
PACK of 2 MODULAR QUAD FACE PLATEs in WHITE PLASTIC | eBay
You fit 4 modular jacks into each. You your chasing cable in these fit onto standard double metal backboxes. If you trunking, they also fit double surface patresses. Then use some 1m (or more if required) premade patch cables to connect from these places to your switch. I say to use these as they are made using stranded utp, The box you buy will be solid core and more prone to mechanical damage. Again I'd advise using faceplates and patch leads at the appliance end. Yes, you can use the IDC insertion tool to make off the modular jacks, it's actually the right tool
Router, If you don't already have the router then you wont know how many ports are on it. Some have 4 others only 1.
If 1 then everything connects to switch, then switch to the router.
If 4 then you have options. The 4 ports are essentially a built in switch, if anything has high internet requirements (possibly server depanding on what it is used for) then connect direct to router. If multiple puters are using the network intensively then the standalone switch could become a bottleneck. Though I really doubt you will have such problems. Also, if the sever is more to server files, data to the puters then connect it to the switch as it will manage multiple connections better rather than having to send the data through a single port for the router to then pass it round some more.
Told you this could get long, anyways, think that clears up a bit. Any other q's. You know where I am...