Opinions On Eicr Codes?

[mk1rob]

Hi Guys,

Just done a EICR on a domestic property. Its about 10-15years old so alls good wiring wise. The only observations are that its a 16th edition board so lighting circuits with cables buried in walls less then 50mm not rcd protected. Guessing this would be Code 3? However there is no supplementary bonding in the bathroom either so would that be a code 2 for the lighting?

Thanks

 

[Steve3948]

Installation installed to a previous edition of regulations so just comment.

Did you check bonding or just observation ?

 

[Sharpend]

Is pipe work all plastic? Is the incoming water service in plastic? If so supp bond may not be required. Did you actually test for bonding or if it was actually required?

 

[kerching]

Why oh why did they do away with Code 4

Just saying

 

[Evans Electric]

As Steve says , work to previous regulations does not suddenly become obsolete overnight  so lighting cables without RCD in plaster are fine .

Bathroom bonding is often hidden from view or achieved within an airing cupboard.  

Remind me what Code 4 was Kerch.

 

[mk1rob]

Thanks for the replies. The pipework is copper (apart from plastic coming out of ground to stop tap below sink in kitchen) with no supplementary bonding in bathroom. There is protective bonding in 10mm to incoming gas and water stop tap though.

 

[kerching]

C4

Does not comply with CURRENT edn of BS7671. BUT that does not mean....yahd yahda yahda

Just........not funny enough

 

[mk1rob]

Another quick question, The shower is wired in 6.0mm t&e with 40A MCB. Shower rated at 8.5kW. The cable is buried in the wall up to the loft and then buried in insulation for approx 3-4 metres over to the pull switch. Pretty standard domestic set up imo. Trying to figure out what reference method this would be. Maybe 101? If so according to the regs that cable can only take 27amps. No visible over heating damage to pull switch or shower however it does all look quite new. What code would be suggested for EICR please? Trawled internet looking for this but can't seem to find a definite answer. 

 

[Evans Electric]

I wouldn't worry about the shower personally  , but thats me .   They are only powered for ...what..10 mins tops , forget it .       Different approach if it were a sub-main though.    Call it the "Buried in the wall & plastered in "  method,  whatever number that is .

 

[SPECIAL LOCATION]

 Well you could go along the lines of the extent and limitations as per the model form on page 396.... 

Which States that cables concealed withing the fabric of the building, (floors walls roof spaces  etc..) 

HAVE NOT BEEN INSPECTED!!

and just forget what you have or haven't seen....

OR..

you could make a big fuss and try to get some money to change it....

take your pick!!

opcorn

 

[Sidewinder]

Thanks for the replies. The pipework is copper (apart from plastic coming out of ground to stop tap below sink in kitchen) with no supplementary bonding in bathroom. There is protective bonding in 10mm to incoming gas and water stop tap though.

So the incoming water is plastic?

 

[Badger]

So the incoming water is plastic?

i thought it was wet!! :slap :slap :slap :slap ] ]

 

[mk1rob]

So the incoming water is plastic?

yes

 

[Andy™]

yes

and do you know what means?

 

[NozSpark]

Im sure I had an assesment once where the gas supply was hep,,, im also sure I didnt bond it

 

[batty]

I generally will test incoming supplies to see if they are earthy had this with an oil pipe that was metal that went to a plastic tank as it was sleeved it was not earthy so I didn't bond it. You need to test it. I think though internal pipes that are copper that are connected to a plastic main may not be extraneous but they may induce a potential so I would bond them at the entry. 

 

[Andy™]

if they are not extraneous they cant introduce a potential

 

[Manator]

Another quick question, The shower is wired in 6.0mm t&e with 40A MCB. Shower rated at 8.5kW. The cable is buried in the wall up to the loft and then buried in insulation for approx 3-4 metres over to the pull switch. Pretty standard domestic set up imo. Trying to figure out what reference method this would be. Maybe 101? If so according to the regs that cable can only take 27amps. No visible over heating damage to pull switch or shower however it does all look quite new. What code would be suggested for EICR please? Trawled internet looking for this but can't seem to find a definite answer. 

Doing any inspection is covered by certain regulations all pointing towards competence. You may be a very good electrician, you may install and design electrical installations very well, but if you have to ask such questions you should really not do any paid inspection work until you have a deeper knowledge of the types and systems used.

It all comes down to experience, and of course qualifications.

The above example would prove that the cable installed is satisfactory for purpose, I am not saying it is correct I have not seen the installation. What I can say is that the cable is not showing any signs of heat damage because the different installation methods provide sufficient cooling during high usage.

Have you taken any measurements during use? Turn the shower on and use a clamp meter just to satisfy how many amps are consumed. You could use a digital thermometer to take temperature readings on any exposed cable to see if any over heating has occurred. What is the volt drop? All answers to these questions should satisfy a proper report rather than an opinion.

 

[Manator]

You could buy a thermal Imaging camera and go on a proper TI course and then take an assessment of the cable and connections when running under load…..

I went the cheaper option :slap

 

[Adrian]

Doing any inspection is covered by certain regulations all pointing towards competence. You may be a very good electrician, you may install and design electrical installations very well, but if you have to ask such questions you should really not do any paid inspection work until you have a deeper knowledge of the types and systems used.

It all comes down to experience, and of course qualifications.

The above example would prove that the cable installed is satisfactory for purpose, I am not saying it is correct I have not seen the installation. What I can say is that the cable is not showing any signs of heat damage because the different installation methods provide sufficient cooling during high usage.

Have you taken any measurements during use? Turn the shower on and use a clamp meter just to satisfy how many amps are consumed. You could use a digital thermometer to take temperature readings on any exposed cable to see if any over heating has occurred. What is the volt drop? All answers to these questions should satisfy a proper report rather than an opinion.

Are you in the real world Manator  why does he need to use a clamp meter for, he knows the load and do you really use a thermometer to take reading of the cable in the insulation on a domestic condition report . MK1rob has made some good observations and I for one think that he was unsure and  he took the time and effort to find out, instead of just ignoring it . Over time he will gain experience and he will make  good judgments of what codes to issue  but until that time we all should encourage and not put posters down for asking.The problem with newly qualified electrician they are not aware of the previous version of the regs and installation methods used, so find it hard to make a  call on what is acceptable or not.