Pool Heater

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steve5

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Just bought new 12kw pool heater, need to know correct installation, suggested as follows:-

10mm t&e from non rcd side of 100a main fuse board running either in steel conduit or above ceiling in garage (3m), connect to 64a RCD fixed on inside of gable wall, 10mm t&e run through gable wall to outside junction box, connecting to 10mm armoured cable running to heater (3m).

Is this about right?.

 
I think there maybe some more info needed like supply type, breaker at house CCU. Breaker at garage CCU. What refernce method do you expect the DB circuit to be run in? Are you registered with a Part P "little club" as this work will be notifiable to LBC?

Welcome to the Forum.

Ian.

 
Just bought new 12kw pool heater, need to know correct installation, suggested as follows:-10mm t&e from non rcd side of 100a main fuse board running either in steel conduit or above ceiling in garage (3m), connect to 64a RCD fixed on inside of gable wall, 10mm t&e run through gable wall to outside junction box, connecting to 10mm armoured cable running to heater (3m).

Is this about right?.
you need some kind of overload/fault protection. 3mtr or steel conduit and 10mm T&E is gonna be a lot more awkward than just using SWA for everything.

have to ask, are you competent to do this?

 
Given that it's a 12KW heater and may be on for a long time due to the mass of water, have you considered connecting it to the boards side of the meter? :p

 
Thanks, for your responses, I'm not an electrician, only certified to DIY standards - seemed reasonally straight forward to me at first, but I'm not able to answer your questions, hence looks like I'll have to put hand in pocket a pay for someone who can, unless offcourse your'll making it sound complicated but in reality its **** easy.

 
It is not as simple as just getting the cable. You need to calculate the load needed then work out which installation method is needed, source MCB's and RCD's that take into account discrimination and then work out which cable is best with a higher current carrying capacity than needed. All this is before telling Local Building Control as this is notifiable (and they will charge for that too). Once installed and before put into service, it will need testing (both before and after energised). Extra work may also be needed on the supply side including checking Main Bondng is up to standard and that you are not exporting a PME earth (or if you are nessessary precautions are followed).

For your own peace of mind (and ability to sell and insure your property in the future), you would be best seeking the services of a registered professional (or a vet in our case here ;) ).

Hope all goes well.

Ian.

 
Thanks, for your responses, I'm not an electrician, only certified to DIY standards - seemed reasonally straight forward to me at first, but I'm not able to answer your questions, hence looks like I'll have to put hand in pocket a pay for someone who can, unless offcourse your'll making it sound complicated but in reality its **** easy.
there is a lot more to electrics that sticking a cable between A and B and hoping for the best

 
One of the main things that most people (as in non sparks) fail to understand initially is that a fuse/breaker/overload protective device is there to protect the cable and not just there to protect an appliance. Once this is understood then cable ratings etc.... all become much clearer to people and you understand why you should never not have one (either of suitable size or at all) on a cable.

 
This is probably a toboo subject on this forum, but any idea how much its likely to cost to install 12kw pool heater.

 
phone a few local sparks
Get a few quotes from registered electricians, who will provide you with the relevent certificates to prove compliance with the building regulations and the wiring regulations.

Otherwise take your chance on the local diy genious who knows nothing other than put you and your children at risk, but its cheaper.

 

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