Problem With Pull-Cord Switch

[H2O]

Hi, and thanks for the opportunity to ask a question - here goes.....

I have a new 45A double pole pull cord switch for an electric shower (cost about a tenner).

In order to switch the shower on it's necessary to pull the cord twice - once to "on" - and the shower is not switched on (nor are the neon lights in the switch or shower illuminated) -  then I must switch it back to "off", then "on" , at which point everything works. It does this each and every time the shower is used.

I am assiming this is a fault,( though someone suggested it is not with some switches).If it is a fault is it the prelude to the switch packing in and should I change it ?

It was a titanic battle to get the 10mm cable into the ceiling plasterboard mounting box , though I have taken it off again to check connections.

Thanks in advance for any advice.

 

[paul b b]

sounds like a bit of a dodgy swithch to me, though to be honest i dont see the point in switching it off, i just leave it on.

 

[ProDave]

Yes dodgy switch take it back. You just know otherwise it will be unreliable.

Having said that, I'm not a fan of turning the isolator off every time.  I can see no harm in 99% of cases with just leaving the isolator on all the time and just switching off at the shower.

 

[Apache]

I don't see the point turning it off every time either, but what I would want is a switch that if I wanted to turn off was going to 100%.

The best shower pull cords are those made by Crabtree. They are a little dearer, but much easier to terminate and the neon removes with the cover to not mess up your IR testing.

 

[revjames]

pull switches on showers are for isolation purposes generally. I never operate the pull switch as theres a perfectly good on/off switch on the front of the shower!

 

[KNB]

pull switches on showers are for isolation purposes generally. I never operate the pull switch as theres a perfectly good on/off switch on the front of the shower!

This. The pullcord switch is to provide a means of local isolation for the supply to the shower. In your case I'd replace as it's probably on it's way out.

 

[SLIPSHOD & SLAPDASH]

. In your case I'd replace as it's probably on it's way out.

Its only just on its way in :B-

 

[SPECIAL LOCATION]

Hi, and thanks for the opportunity to ask a question - here goes.....

I have a new 45A double pole pull cord switch for an electric shower (cost about a tenner).

In order to switch the shower on it's necessary to pull the cord twice - once to "on" - and the shower is not switched on (nor are the neon lights in the switch or shower illuminated) -  then I must switch it back to "off", then "on" , at which point everything works. It does this each and every time the shower is used.

I am assiming this is a fault,( though someone suggested it is not with some switches).If it is a fault is it the prelude to the switch packing in and should I change it ?

It was a titanic battle to get the 10mm cable into the ceiling plasterboard mounting box , though I have taken it off again to check connections.

Thanks in advance for any advice.

Swith is faulty IMHO..

also...

Despite what some of my learned colleagues say above...

I would check with your shower manufactures instructions..

Some manufactures specifically say the shower must be switched off by the isolator switch when not in use..

e.g.

bottom of page 18..

http://www.tritonshowers.co.uk/media/1452505/t80z%20fast%20fit.pdf

or



Also..

If a shower cord pull switch is faulty it is 95%+ chance it is a square one...

During your titanic battle to cram everything in you probably damage some of the internals of the swicth..

and/or cause the connections to become a bit lose which will cause overheating issues at a later time..

You need to bin the square switch and fit one of these..

http://www.screwfix.com/p/crabtree-50a-pullcord-sw-neon/90597

Unlike other electrical appliances where if the integral on off switch failed may just turn something on and consume a bit of electricity..

If an internal micro switch failed on the shower..

it could also start chucking water out of the shower head!!

If isolated at the cord pull this cannot happen...

 

[Evans Electric]

As Specs says ... you may have damaged the switch during your Titanic battle , or the switch may have hit an iceberg .  Or the 10mm may have put pressure on the switch.

A tip with 10mm in pull switches   :-

a)   Make sure the Brown & Blue are opposite each other ready for the terminals in the switch .

b)   As you push the switch up to the box the spare cable can only go up into the ceiling space .  

 

[ProDave]

It often helps to enlarge the knock outs of the box for b) above to work.

Also, I'm not a fan of shower switches in quick fit plasterboard boxes. Knowing the force some need to pull to activate the switch, I don't rate the chances of the plasterboard lasting long if it gets even the slightest bit damp.  another reason for personally not exercising it on a daily basis.

 

[H2O]

Hi everybody

Thanks so much for the helpful replys. Lots to take on board. ( Not sure if I'm replying in the right place, but hope that you all read it anyway)

Just one question - I think it was "Trailer Boy" who recommended the circular switch at Screwfix, which looks more practical. The link that you gave led to a 50 amp switch - since the manufacturer recommends a 45amp switch, is there any issues to consider if I fit a 50 amp instead ? - perhaps there exists a 45amp in this design ?

Also, how does this circular model fit to a plasterboard ceiling - does there exist a backbox ?

Many thanks again

 

[ProDave]

50A switch is fine. It's always okay to fit a switch of larger rating.

The round one will fit a round plasterboard box.  A good idea for a new fit, but a round box won't fit the square hole you already have, so I wouldn't try fitting the round one.

 

[NozSpark]

I would normally fit the round ones bang on a ceiling joist with one cable coming in each side (using a minimum of 2" screws).

If you struggled getting the cables into a square one then you're not dressing the cables correctly,, as with most things the detail is in the planning and preparation, I did post a picture of a (IMHO) nicely dressed square shower isolator ages ago - I'm sure that it must be in one of my online albums

 

[kerching]

Fit a new Crabtree....end of.

ALL the rest are total pants......................... :coat

 

[H2O]

Well thanks once more everybody. I will be able to sort it out thanks to the advice.

Cheers all

 

[Doc Hudson]

50A switch is fine. It's always okay to fit a switch of larger rating.

The round one will fit a round plasterboard box.  A good idea for a new fit, but a round box won't fit the square hole you already have, so I wouldn't try fitting the round one.

I suspect the OP means a surface patress box fixed to the plasterboard ceiling rather than a dry-line box cut into the ceiling. The crabtree round switches are just screwed to the surface usually with some decent screws into the joist behind. I may be wrong, but assuming it is all surface, a round switch can easily replace a square one.

Doc H.