Replacing Ceiling Lamp Holder

[thegalaxyboy]

Hello Everyone,
I have a one way dimmer light switch in the lounge which was connected to a 3 bulb lampshade (b22 max 60w each).

I decided to change both the lampshade and pendant lamp holder to e27.

I connected all the wiring and confirmed that voltage was going through using an AC Voltage Detector what looks to be fine. However, testing with e27 bulbs and two different e27 pendant lamp holders, the lights fail to switch on despite adjusting the light switch. Any thoughts on what's been overlooked please?

Thanks.

 

[thegalaxyboy]

Note - I did connect the ceiling wiring Red to Brown and Black to Blue.

 

[kerching]

Well if it worked before and doesn't now it's got a good chance of being connected wrong
Wire broken?
Insulation trapped etc?

What AC Voltage Detector did you use?
Have you tried this Detector on anything else to prove it works?

 

[Murdoch]

have you got some more ES bulbs you can try? Or try the bulbs you have in another fitting?

 

[thegalaxyboy]

Thanks for the replys. The detector (Kaiweets) works fine as I've tested it against another light. I have traced the ceiling wires and they look to be connected okay. Tried three different ES bulbs but none work.

Next course of action is to try another lamp holder from the house rather than x2 new devices and I'll report back on outcome.

Thank you again.

 

[thegalaxyboy]

Update: slightly pulled the ceiling light and found another connector (right hand side in photo) and this is being detected as live despite the light being off. The room also has two wall mounted dimming lights with the switch for these being on the other side of the room. The second wall mount light which is at the same angle as the ceiling light no longer operates when switched on but the second light does.

So could well be that something has been pulled.

 

[Mike P]

All the cables need to be pulled through the ceiling and connected to the new light rose. There is probably a neutral connector in there as well. I suspect one of the cables has become loose. All wires should be accessible.

 

[Fleeting]

Those block connectors should not be exposed in the ceiling cavity, I recommend you get an electrician involved.

 

[SPECIAL LOCATION]

Any thoughts on what's been overlooked please?

Probably the "basics" of electrical wiring.... ??
e.g. some key points often overlooked, when something no longer works following a DIY replacement....

(1) Any electrical accessory that has the need to be switched on/off MUST have a permanent live, switched live, neutral and earth, somewhere in the circuit..
Which, may be at the switch, at the accessory or at a junction box?

(2) Any electrical accessory that is always live, with no need to be switched off, (e.g. a socket outlet), Only needs a permanent live, neutral and earth. Which may or may not include further wires to extend a radial, spur, and/or ring final, to other points on the same circuit.

(3) A broken permanent live, switched live, or broken neutral joint / conductor, anywhere along a circuit can stop one, (or more), parts of that circuit working. (Note:- A broken socket ring conductors may still appear to be working OK, even though the circuit is faulty!)

(4) Some DIY voltage testers have limited functional use when diagnosing fault problems..
e.g. Where some item(s) no longer work, and they can lead you up a wrong assumption path when trying to identify the cause of a problem.

(5) HSE, BS7671, and/or other electrical industry recognised voltage testers, continuity testers, insulation resistance testers, used by a suitably competent, qualified and experienced person, is often the most economical and safest way to diagnose a problem you are trying to resolve..

(6) An accessory, (light/socket), wired with reverse polarity and no earth connection will appear to work OK when the power is turned on... But it is NOT electrical safe and should be amended before being put back into service.

(7) If in any doubt, getting competent help to identify, test and diagnose any electrical problem can be more cost effective, safer, and waste less time, than random guess work swapping various combinations of wires / components that could potentially damage switch contacts if placing a direct Live-neutral short circuit across the switch.

(8) Repeated attempts at energising a short circuit can also damage an MCB / RCBO.

 

[peterspurs]

Also the fitting needs to be connected to the earth cpc which won’t happen with the connector tucked in the ceiling