Shower Isolation Switch Position

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crystaljohn

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I would be grateful if someone could let me know if a shower isolation switch ( the shower is to be fitted above a bath) is required to be in the room where the shower is fitted, or can it be fitted elsewhere.

In this instance there is a cupboard outside the bathroom and I was thinking of fitting it there.

Any advice much appreciated.

 
There is no reg that states an isolation switch need to be installed at all - that said I think its good practice to install DP isolation switchesfor all fixed appliances and the location in an adjacent cupboard isn't a problem IMHO.

 
All electrical appliances require a local isolator and I'd go with Prodave's  outside the bathroom door advice,  you could fit it fairly high if you want .  

Or use a pull switch inside the bathroom .

 
there is a requirement for a 'local point of isolation' for fixed appliances, hence we fit shower isolators, cooker isolators, night storage heater isloators etc etc

 
I quite agree, but BS7671 doesn't state that one is required!
You are quite correct, but anyone who expects there to be a regulation backing up every last detail of good design will be sadly disappointed. I don't think you will find a regulation in BS7671 stating that light switches are required in or near the room that a light is installed in. However I imagine you fit switches for lights that you install, rather than relying upon the MCB. Some items of electrical design are down to common sense, functional operation, logical positioning etc. Such that an untrained, non skilled person should be able to use the installation easily during its everyday operation, and isolate any items requiring disconnection for maintenance or for rapid isolation in the event of a fault. e.g. smoke, burning, melting, arcing, sparking, visible, audible or electrical smells coming from an item of electrical equipment. These are some of the basic functions of local isolation. Also the possibility that a fault inside the shower could cause an RCD to trip may need the neutral to be easily isolated to allow an RCD protecting multiple circuits to be reset. A single pole MCB would not provide this isolation. I think most manufactures suggest a double pole isolation switch with 3mm separation contact gap. 

Doc H.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
You are quite correct, but anyone who expects there to be a regulation backing up every last detail of good design will be sadly disappointed. I don't think you will find a regulation in BS7671 stating that light switches are required in or near the room that a light is installed in. However I imagine you fit switches for lights that you install, rather than relying upon the MCB. Some items of electrical design are down to common sense, functional operation, logical positioning etc. Such that an untrained, non skilled person should be able to use the installation easily during its everyday operation, and isolate any items requiring disconnection for maintenance or for rapid isolation in the event of a fault. e.g. smoke, burning, melting, arcing, sparking, visible, audible or electrical smells coming from an item of electrical equipment. These are some of the basic functions of local isolation. Also the possibility that a fault inside the shower could cause an RCD to trip may need the neutral to be easily isolated to allow an RCD protecting multiple circuits to be reset. A single pole MCB would not provide this isolation. I think most manufactures suggest a double pole isolation switch with 3mm separation contact gap. 

Doc H.
Just for clarity I always fit idolatrous, just there seem to be increasing amounts of sparks who don't

 
Just for clarity I always fit idolatrous, just there seem to be increasing amounts of sparks who don't
:Blushing

mmmmm,

I suppose I need to get round to fitting one on my own place now youve caught me out then........   :|

I do fit them for customers though, just couldnt be arsed with my own house,  :slap

 
I do the same as PD or if the airing cupboard backs onto the bathroom it goes in there.

 
Not sure why this thread has reached #13  TBH       . :C     An accessory has a local isolator , a shower has a local isolator ....CrystalJohn whom I presume is a DIYer  must be somewhat bemused.

 
I know Ducky  :)   but the nature of the Forum is that we tend to continue posting or arguing long after , as you say, the OP has left the building . 

I've opened a thread sometimes with just the 1st post ....returned a day later to find a full blown verbal battle raging ...with threats bandied about ....members banned for swearing etc ...insults flying   .....................    its great ;)  

 
:innocent

Indeed its a great place to be :D
Wine/beer + differing opinions can be quite entertaining :)

Nahhhh...

you is all talking bo**ocks!!!

to be strictly accurate..

The OP doesn't even say its an ELECTRIC shower..!!!!!!!

it COULD be a mixer????

:innocent   :innocent

(quick fan the flames before they die down!)

:coat

 
:innocent

Nahhhh...

you is all talking bo**ocks!!!

to be strictly accurate..

The OP doesn't even say its an ELECTRIC shower..!!!!!!!

Mmmmmmm

In that case then it would require a stop top,as,surely a 'mixer' is analogous to a dimmer switch.

If it was a conventional "non thermostwatic" shower then the taps maynsuffice

Just......talking Merlot fueled,twaddle,at,this late hour,,sorry

it COULD be a mixer????

:innocent   :innocent

(quick fan the flames before they die down!)

:coat
 
I'm still here by the way. :C

Very many thanks for all the input. I have always fitted a shower isolation switch when installing an electric shower. My understanding is that it is to provide a convenient means of isolating the neutral in the event of a fault, and isolate any items requiring disconnection for maintenance or for fast isolation in the event of a fault.

My initial question concerned the postioning of the switch, as I was needing some advice as to wether or not the switch was required to be in the same room as the appliance.

 
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