strappers

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hope this helps and hope i haven't been beaten to it!

switchconnections.jpg


 
damn my dinner eating and slow drawing!!
lol thanks Bengie.

you can do me a nice drawing for the same thing but 4 gang if you like, i have 1x pendant 1x wall lights 1x spots 1x 2amp sockets plus strappers plus feeds all i 1 box, and she wants dimmers :eek:

many thanks again

 
its just the same mate but the feed loops round the other switches too :)

it doesn't matter how many switches there on the plate, its could be a 36 way plate, you still connect the switches up like individual switches but loop the live round them.

hope that makes sense.

 
this may help, minus the 3core strappers to make it clearer. You know where they should go.
2wayfeedjpeg.jpg


 
the feeds in and out don't have to go to the outside its just easier normally as then you only have 2(in a one way switch) or 3(in a 2 way wired like yours) rathern than some switches with just a feed in where others have 5 cables.

 
thanks sellers.i should have made it easy and looped in the light, but never mind
You'll know for next time, I always loop at lights (unless its easier at SW or JB), dunno why though.

 
its not always easier to loop at the light, it normally is with ceiling roses as they have all the connections set out but with wall lights/spot lights etc then it may be easier to loop at the switch.

personally i don't ever use JB's for lights unless its spot lights and then i will only use small ones and wire them so that they can removed through the hole for the light(i know they are suposed to be secured but i personally feel that if cable lengths are sensible, cables are properly dressed, and the JB sensibly located then its far better in the long run than it being fixed to a joist).

 
this 4 way light is silly2x feed

1x pendant

1x wall light

1x spots

1x 2 amp socket

4x strappers

all in 1 box and can only use a 25mm as its lath and plaster :(
dress it neatly and strip the cables back to only just after they enter the box and connect up the cores logically and it shouldn't be a problem, i don't understand why you can only use 25mm deep boxes, is the partition wall very shallow?

i removed a lath and plaster facing from my bedroom and replaced it with plaster board but the partition is still made with 4" timber so plenty of room available.

 
dress it neatly and strip the cables back to only just after they enter the box and connect up the cores logically and it shouldn't be a problem, i don't understand why you can only use 25mm deep boxes, is the partition wall very shallow?i removed a lath and plaster facing from my bedroom and replaced it with plaster board but the partition is still made with 4" timber so plenty of room available.
the wall is literaly, plaster lath, plaster.

if i cut out the lath the plsater on the other side will fall off

 
the wall is literaly, plaster lath, plaster.if i cut out the lath the plsater on the other side will fall off
you could always add a shallow surface box to add depth.

not aesthetically pleasing but hey ho

 
forgot to ask, you mention dimmers on the coming 4g switch. i personally have neve fitted normal dimmers 2 way so i don't know they interact but in my bedroom i have installed 2way and intemediate electronic dimmers, which was interesting.

 
the wall is literaly, plaster lath, plaster.if i cut out the lath the plsater on the other side will fall off
blimey, what on earth are the laths fixed to?

 
forgot to ask, you mention dimmers on the coming 4g switch. i personally have neve fitted normal dimmers 2 way so i don't know they interact but in my bedroom i have installed 2way and intemediate electronic dimmers, which was interesting.
Normal dimmers are simply wired as standard 2 way switches. You only have 1 dimmer per group though at one end or the other.

 
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