If you want a radiator to radiate... paint it black!!!
That'll look good!
That'll look good!
Underfloor heating .
- Thread starter Megaohm7
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jl-heating
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ty m8 
nice to be back .. ......
its like sitting in an old comfy chair login in hehe
nice to be back .. ......its like sitting in an old comfy chair login in
hehePeatBog
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As others have suggested, wet underfloor heating requires a lower running temperature than radiators. It think 54 degrees is considered the maximum temparature that can be used from underfloor heating, greater is considered uncomfortable on the feet (although I doubt my wife would ever complain of hot feet). Traditional systems have use a mixing valve that mixes cold return water with the hot feed which then may feed a manifold if more than one (loop) zone is feed. Normally they also include an extra pump and some extra controls.
However, there are a few new systems that are aimed at retrofit in suituations where you want to replace an existing radiator. These dispense with the mixing valve, pump, manifold, etc. and just use a modified trv which simply limits the return temp of the loop. This follows the principle that the return temp of the water from the floor loop = approx temp of floor = approximate temp of the room. Very easy to fit as you have just to connect up the two ends of the plastic pipe (no horrible electrical controls or anything!!). The downside is that pipe wayout is much more important as the flow half of the loop will be much warmer than the return half of the loop (especially at warmup).
I've recently used a Danfoss system in a kitchen extension which seem to work very well, although this was in a new screed floor. On the Danfoss web site see "Underfloor heating"-> "Self acting single zone solutions".
However, there are a few new systems that are aimed at retrofit in suituations where you want to replace an existing radiator. These dispense with the mixing valve, pump, manifold, etc. and just use a modified trv which simply limits the return temp of the loop. This follows the principle that the return temp of the water from the floor loop = approx temp of floor = approximate temp of the room. Very easy to fit as you have just to connect up the two ends of the plastic pipe (no horrible electrical controls or anything!!). The downside is that pipe wayout is much more important as the flow half of the loop will be much warmer than the return half of the loop (especially at warmup).
I've recently used a Danfoss system in a kitchen extension which seem to work very well, although this was in a new screed floor. On the Danfoss web site see "Underfloor heating"-> "Self acting single zone solutions".
jl-heating
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remember also 150mm centres for air/ground sourse heating 200mm centres for gas fired heating.
just some more useless info to send u crackers lol.
just some more useless info to send u crackers lol.
jl-heating
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if at 150 bulb shape the ends.
also screed under pressure and test... !!!!! very important..... and no fittings in the screed. you can buy 500 metre rolls..
also screed under pressure and test... !!!!! very important..... and no fittings in the screed. you can buy 500 metre rolls..
