venturer LCD15-106

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steptoe

of course Im wrong, ask my wife™
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a mate has gave me one of these to see if I can fix it,

he has bought a new one so says I can have it if its worth fixing.

I have NO idea about this sort of stuff, so maybe some of you folks might know,

on plugging it in the RED power LED pulses on and off,

having a quick glance inside it looks like a couple of little capacitors have blown,

my thoughts are why? what made them blow,

secondly, is it a worthwhile fix, or a common problem?

all ideas gratefully received.

 
Sounds like the classic dried out caps causing the SMPS to keep tripping. Its a very common problem. Try replacing any cap that seems to be leaking or has a domed top that seems ready to burst. The odds on this fixing the problem are very high - I've fixed loads of LCD monitors this way.

Why does it happen - cheap capacitors, run close to there rating in a warm place.

Adrian

 
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Find the part numbers of the boards. then google them. Chances are you will find the service manuals with circuit diagrams and part values.

Post the part numbers here as well.

I dabble in fixing tv's as a hobby to give me light relief from real work.

 
any idea how I would find the size of the blown caps?
I've got an LCD19-106 on my bench at the moment.......let me know the part number of the PSU.... they might be the same :)

 
had a look at this again,

the main board has a couple of numbers on it,

033-PL3691W200

94VO1®R29

3506

part C83 has gone, completely, apart from the base, and is noticably slightly larger (physically) than most of the other capacitors, also C81 looks dodgy, 100uF, 16v.

 
had a look at this again,the main board has a couple of numbers on it,

033-PL3691W200

94VO1®R29

3506

part C83 has gone, completely, apart from the base, and is noticably slightly larger (physically) than most of the other capacitors, also C81 looks dodgy, 100uF, 16v.
Ok, I'll have a look at the PCB in the one on my bench.....you might be luck :)

 
thanks Adrian,

Ive spotted a couple of the PCBs on ebay, but I dont want to buy something that wont fix it, and if its only a capacitor then its worth a few pence to give it a go.

 
I hope Adrian can help, because googling those board numbers only brings up this thread.

Trace the tracks from the capacitor. If they lead directly to a set of diodes or a bridge rectifier on the input side of the transformer, then it's the main input reservoir capacitor, so will be 400V DC rating. Then let the diameter determine the largest value you can fit in there.

If it's on the output side then it could be anything.

Looking at the "service manual" linked above, the input capacitor is 82uF 400V but that's C1. Can't correlate C83 with that manual so I doubt it's really the right thing.

 
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thanks Dave, yep, I spent a couple of hours trying those numbers, all I could find was here (?), or the link oldtimespark posted,

its the farad rating I have no idea about, or idea what the consequences would be if its way out, still need to try and figure out what way round it needs to go too. :|

I deffo couldnt do this for money, but it would give me a TV in the 'office' for when the wife is watching her 'entertainment' downstairs.

 
The polarity should be marked on the board. Usually one half is shaded and that's usually the negative pin.

you could try powering it up with the expired cap in place briefly just to measure the voltage across the extinct capacitor. Then once you know the voltage, fit the largest capacitance you can fit in the space. It rarely hurts to be too high in value. fit a slightly higher voltage than you need, e.g if it measures 10V fit 16V or 25V rated capacitor. Also if it is the input smoothing cap, then the measured voltage with no capacitor in place will likely be lower than the voltage when a good cap is there. Make that reading and tell us what you find.

I dabble in tv repairs as a hobby and it can be very time consuming. I don't know how you could make a living at it. If I charged my normal electricians hourly rate, then my the time I've fixed it, you could have bought a new set for what I would charge. I only do it for fun.

 
I dont have the expired cap, its not there, nothing but the rubber base and pins left of it, :eek:

I'll have a look at it later and see if any of the other caps on the board look like likely size equivalents, then I could just get the largest I can find that will fit, I suppose,

all the others that I have noticed are all rated at 16v on this board, it seems to be the 'driver' (?) board, the PSU is a little board that is seperate.

 
Ah that will explain why the circuit linked above does not make sense, as that was the PSU board.

If the board is only fed by 12V then it's unlikely that anything on this board is going to be higher than 12V, so put the largest 16V cap you can fit in there. Be guided by the diameter of what will physically fit.

While you are ordering capacitors, order some to replace any others that look even the slightest bit dodgy. One thing to do is look at the top of them. It should be completely flat. If there's the merest hint of it being dome shaped rather than flat, replace it.

I find CPC are good for capacitors. Trouble is you are stung by delivery charges which when ordering just a few capacitors can be more than the cost of the parts. Try and tie it in to an order of electrical stuff to get over

 
I was just going to buy one at maplins ( :eek: ), that way I can physically see the size of it, there are a couple of maplins I pass regularly, and, for the price of one capacitor I dont mind for a one off.

by the same token, I have a couple of old cable boxes kicking around I might be able to scavenge......

 
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