1970s fuseboard advice

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Barnet Al

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Went on a griefy job today, simple oven swap but couldn't isolate circuit as no labels, or supply because owner was on a video call. Also no local isolator for the oven. Anyway, would appreciate some advice on this relic. Are they plug in BS 3036 replacements? Can I just pull them out? What era are they?1000023868.jpg
 
That's great thanks! At 50 years old I would be thinking to advise that while I can fit the oven (with a local isolator) they should be replaced as their correct operation cannot be guaranteed? Fuse wire is fuse wire, it will always work, but could you have any confidence in these? Or install an RCBO downstream or better still, walk away?
 
It looks like this inside. They might be Type 1 & 2 as opposed to Type B & C which had slightly different current curve characteristics. Think it depends on whether white or yellow writing on them.

They are circuit breakers not fuse wire.

20240703_233937.jpg
 
Think the boards were still going in as late as about '89 so could be anywhere 70s - 80s. The writing on the breakers is a little clue to the age, originally white, later ones were yellow, with the white being M3 breaking capacity and the yellow M4.5. All breakers were to BS3871 type 2, however you could still buy the breakers from manufacturer until quite recently (perhaps you still can???) and they were reclassified as 60898 type C for the new ones once 3871 was no longer current, but I don't think they actually changed, just got recertified. Type 2 is instant operation at between 4 and 7x, type C is between 5x and 10x so I presume they would go out somewhere between 5x and 7x.

There were actually RCBOs for them, but they were quite rare, I can count on one hand how many I have come across! (15th edition regs didn't really have many requirements for them!)

They are actually hydralic in operation, they have a little dashpot type thing inside, theres a youtube tear down video by john ward.

Worth recommending a board upgrade as there is no additional RCD protection, but I get the feeling a lot of the C50s will still be working fine when a lot of later stuff has long since failed!
 
If you are just replacing a cooker, then no need to replace the board. However, if I was you I would strongly recommend a full inspection and board change, plus install an isolator somewhere. If this is a rental, then that is a 'must' to be legally compliant.

As for isolating the cooker, turn the whole board off if you have to
 
It looks like this inside. They might be Type 1 & 2 as opposed to Type B & C which had slightly different current curve characteristics. Think it depends on whether white or yellow writing on them.

They are circuit breakers not fuse wire.

View attachment 16950
None of them were type 1. Early devices were 3871 type C, generally not identified as type C. Later devices became 3871 type 2 and always identified, if devices are not identified assume 3871 type C as advised by Crabtree. Production of the distribution boards stopped but Crabtree continued to produce devices badged as 60898 type C as @Phoenix said at least into the 90s and I have only ever seen one.
 
Certainly a blast from the past fitted loads of these C50 boards back in the late 70's / early 80's then moved on to installing Merlin Gerin and Hager
 

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