Another Shed post, lighting this time.

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murraymint

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I'm planning on installing a couple of 600 x 1200 Super Slim LED Panel Light 70w, https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/LTSP70W.html, in addition I will be using surface mounted 25mm metal conduit, I'm looking for that industrial look.

My question to you guys is, how do you plan your conduit runs, for instance, do you mark out the position of lights sockets ETC?

Thank you for any answers.
 
Are you using plastic conduit or galvy conduit, plastic stuff is a lot easier but probably not the look you after. Metal conduit, needs some kit like a threading die and stock, benders, although you could probably get away without the benders if you didn’t have any sets and kicks to do.
You would probably only need 20mm conduit for this.
You will also need bushes, couplers, lock rings, inspection elbows maybe, end boxes or straight through boxes maybe, and saddles, 13 threads onto the end of a conduit for a lock ring and coupler, 11 if no lock ring.
Yip all measured and conduit cut taking into account the couplers and boxes.
Not a job usually done as a one off by someone who has not done it before.
Where roughly in the country are you?
 
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You don't actually need a di for steel conduit anymore, you can get conduit boxes with a grubscrew that holds it in place, seen it, not used it, forgot what its called.
Ah yes, true, never used myself and probably never will as retired now and still have bits and pieces of the “proper” stuff left if I needed to do a wee job or help someone out.
 
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You don't actually need a di for steel conduit anymore, you can get conduit boxes with a grubscrew that holds it in place, seen it, not used it, forgot what its called.
Conlok
I have only ever used it for imperial to metric conduit alterations but I don't see any reason why it could not be used for a new installation if you don't have the vice and the stocks and die's to use the traditional method
 
Conlok
I have only ever used it for imperial to metric conduit alterations but I don't see any reason why it could not be used for a new installation if you don't have the vice and the stocks and die's to use the traditional method
Ive used it a couple of times, it's so much quicker, not much different to using pvc. Mind you I've not installed when reliant on the conduit for a cpc, or anywhere you might want to keep water out.
 
How do you waterproof or weatherproof it? Silicone or similar in the joints? Galvanised conduit that can't be used in wet conditions would be a bit odd.
I'm not sure silicone would last also the conduit and fittings would need to be clean and grease free for a good seal, I would probably use a non setting mastic or something like CT1 to allow a little bit of flex for any expansion or contraction
 
Some people may want Galvanised for that decorative "Industrial" look...
Had a customer quite a few years back wanted Galv conduit on an internal bare-brick conservatory wall..

Which I would agree looked much nicer than PVC ever would!!!

Never heard of or used Conlock...

But could be useful for a small project such as the OP's shed...
https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_I...alv_Conlok/index.html#25mm_Conlok_Accessories

In other situations it could work quite expensive compared to traditional conduit options.?
 
The parts are more expensive, but the labour saving is far greater. Plus all you need is a hacksaw, and a deburring tool or small file to remove any sharp edges.
As I'm getting lazy in my old age if you use a grinder with a cutting disc it is even quicker than using the hacksaw
 
Thank you all for your replies.

Conlok is the route I was planning to take, as others have said, it saves on threading and the likes, still going to need to do a couple of offsets, ill buy some old benders (oh'er) off of eBay.

Liking the idea of using an angle grinder for cutting the tube.

I have to admit that I'm not a sparky but want to do a proper job, I've seen posts on YouTube from eFIXX that talks about "Grouping" and how many cables can be installed in a run of conduit, they make reference to the "site guide", could anyone help with the pages I'd need to refer too? eFIXX Video

As I mentioned above in the first posts, I'm installing two LED 60w panels plus I would like to 8 double sockets, you can never have enough sockets as I have found to my cost in a recent extension we built. There are no big loads being used apart from an Oil filled rad for heating, other than that just small hand tools.

Again thanks for your responses.
 
As I'm getting lazy in my old age if you use a grinder with a cutting disc it is even quicker than using the hacksaw
sabre saw even easier than grinder (or cordless bandsaw even easier again), and there is no hot sparks from it, which may be an issue depending where you are working
 
ill buy some old benders (oh'er) off of eBay.
that is a lot of money for a small job, why do you need to offset the conduit? can you not plan the conduit run do avoid the offsets, and if you are going to buy a bending machine anyway then buy the die's and save yourself more money,

as for the capacity/factor of the conduit, is the number of cables you are permitted in any given conduit run , ( length of run, numbers of bends and grouping all come into this) , grouping depends on how many circuits are run close together , could be in conduit, trunking or just on the wall , there are others factors that need to be looked at, you have temperature the cable are running at, length of the circuit, the load on the circuit and lots more things to look at before you can determine the size of the conduit needed ,

some people think that we just throw stuff up without any design element, when we have a whole big book to tell us what to do ,
 
Thank you all for your replies.

Conlok is the route I was planning to take, as others have said, it saves on threading and the likes, still going to need to do a couple of offsets, ill buy some old benders (oh'er) off of eBay.

Liking the idea of using an angle grinder for cutting the tube.

I have to admit that I'm not a sparky but want to do a proper job, I've seen posts on YouTube from eFIXX that talks about "Grouping" and how many cables can be installed in a run of conduit, they make reference to the "site guide", could anyone help with the pages I'd need to refer too? eFIXX Video

As I mentioned above in the first posts, I'm installing two LED 60w panels plus I would like to 8 double sockets, you can never have enough sockets as I have found to my cost in a recent extension we built. There are no big loads being used apart from an Oil filled rad for heating, other than that just small hand tools.

Again thanks for your responses.

Plus 8 Double sockets... So this is a lot more than just a couple of LED panel lights then?

The On-Site-Guide Section 7, (pages 73 to 102), gives basic summary calculation guidance for "Final circuits", and also refers to sections of BS7671 wiring regulations.

However, for the work you describe, I would have expected you need an understanding of many other sections as well;
e.g. Section 3 Protective devices, Section 4 Earthing & Bonding, Section 9 Inspection & Testing.
Appendix B Max permissible Earth Loop Impedance, Appendix E cable capacities of conduit & trunking, Appendix F Current capacities & volt drop for copper conductors, Appendix G Certification & Reporting, Appendix H Standard circuit arrangements for household and similar installations... etc.. etc.. etc...

(I am not going to start coping images of pages to post here on the forum.. Its quicker for you to either buy a copy https://www.amazon.co.uk/Site-Guide-7671-Electrical-Regulations/dp/1839532270/ref=asc_df_1839532270
Or borrow a copy from the library.)

But more accurately you really need a comprehensive understanding of numerous sections of BS7671 wiring regulations with possible reference to the On-Site-Guide, which is only meant to be a quick ref summary of key points relating to smaller installations.. The On-Site-Guide is intended to provide additional explanations of some aspects of BS7671.. Not a comprehensive single point of reference to answer all electrical design questions instead of the 624 page copy BS7671 plus amendments!

If you "Want to do a proper job"....
What test equipment do you have access to for your dead testing, live testing and RCD testing?

What arrangements have you made for providing electrical certification?

As this sounds like some new circuits, and/or wiring crossing a garden, how are you providing your part-P building regs compliance notification?

What cable sizes have you calculated you need to meet volt drop requirements? as this could also affect what size conduit is needed?

The size of the loads is only one aspect of your calculations, the cable CSA and distance from the incoming supply terminations are also very important... (e.g. A shed at the bottom of a 40m garden is a very different wiring design than a shed 5m away across a driveway.)

I think we'd need more info than you have given so far, to assess if you plans are potentially a good design or a pile of pooh waiting to hit the fan if something goes wrong...

The key rule you MUST remember is that designing any electrical alteration or addition is NOT about making something work..
(As that is easy and any idjut can join a few wires to make something work, even without using YouTube or Mate-Down-The-Pub guidance).. But good electrical design is about ensuring that in the event of a fault the energy source is disconnected fast enough before any one is injured or killed! {remembering that electricity can kill a healthy adult in less than a second}.
 
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