Anyone Good With Vehicle Electrics? (Uninsulated Crimps)

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CPC started the andersons in the last catalogue, still expensive compared to other places though

i usually get them from the cheapest place, even if that means more oders. but unlike you though, i buy a lot more so its worth it for me

battery cable, try a cable supplier like UK cables etc

you could also buy 10 pairs here for £25.90 inc VAT

 
TBH it's going through work so I can claim the VAT back. Both vehicles are work vehicles so it is all above board.

It does get a bit frustrating when getting stuff from various sources as I find I am always waiting for something to turn up.

Have you used Polevolt much? Their prices seem keen and I can get my battery cable at the same time.

Is this different to the crimper I listed on CPC, other than twice the money

http://www.polevolt.co.uk/acatalog/info_TT351.html

 
used polevolt a few times

that crimper is different to that on CPC, but more designed for the superseal terminals than the one from CPC

the one form CPC can squish the seal too much with the superseal terminals, i simply removed the die and grinded a bit off the back so its narrower

 
Sorry my OP not clear. My crimpers are for the BYB insulated terminals.

Would these do?

http://cpc.farnell.com/unbranded/ht-236c/ratchet-non-insulated-crimping/dp/TL01486?Ntt=tl01486
NO

yes, i have those

whilst were on about CPC, have they ditched UPS? delivery the other day was by Citylink
still not the correct pattern crimp.

Apache, if its of any help,

I have built loads of looms, both standard and race,

and perhaps more prominent here would be race bike looms, and against everything advised to me by various folks, in over 20 years of doing this I have used bulklet connectors and copious amounts of 'AQUA'

dunno what you guys call it,

I'll have a google in a bit, and I have NEVER had any electrical fault due to bad wiring on any loom I have ever made, well, none that I have ever been made aware of,

and believe me, some of these guys would be mighty p***ed off if it was a bad connection.

 
NO

still not the correct pattern crimp.

Apache, if its of any help,

I have built loads of looms, both standard and race,

and perhaps more prominent here would be race bike looms, and against everything advised to me by various folks, in over 20 years of doing this I have used bulklet connectors and copious amounts of 'AQUA'

dunno what you guys call it,

I'll have a google in a bit, and I have NEVER had any electrical fault due to bad wiring on any loom I have ever made, well, none that I have ever been made aware of,

and believe me, some of these guys would be mighty p***ed off if it was a bad connection.
Steps - I can't find "bulklet connectors" is that a miss spelt bullet?

 
Steps - I can't find "bulklet connectors" is that a miss spelt bullet?
yes...    :Blushing

but, you need to seal them,

Im just about to have some food, they deffo need some proper waterproofing, NOT wd39 or rubbish like that.

I'll see if I can get you a link to some proper stuff after.

 
My plan for the jump start winch solution (copied on both the Discovery 3 and Freelander 2):

Come off the +ve battery terminal to 250A fuse. T off from there to place 175A Anderson connector in front grill and then go out of engine bay at the bottom and follow chassis to have a connector at the rear near the towbar. Run -ve terminal back to the battery. Run in 25mm battery or welding cable.

I was then going to split both sets of jump leads we have and add an Anderson connector in-line.

I will get a portable winch that will attach to the towbar. I want to be able to use it on either car if needed.

 
for the jump start i use a lead anderson - anderson (about 4mtr), and a short lead of anderson - croc clips.

that way, if you find someone who already had the same idea, you dont need the croc clips, just the anderson - anderson

also, for 12v you should really use yellow, grey is 36v, red 24v. although grey is most common and used on just about everything

for the -ve, you can use the chassis

 
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for the -ve, you can use the chassis
In the grand scheme of things I'd rather buy a bit more cable! Modern Landrovers can be temperamental beasts and the canbus system seems especially prone to 'cascade faults' due to big currents supposedly inducing currents. 

I may be a very naughty boy and use grey because it it most subtle. I was going to fit the black boots and they cover most of the connector anyway.

You'd 'assume' a car was running 12V........

 
50mm would be hellish stuff.

The size of the cable is a real trade off between ease of working and working load. It would seem some of these winches can theoretically pull huge currents at full torque (350+A) but maybe only for a few seconds. I don't envisage getting the 3 tonne car axle deep so I am hoping that I can 'get away' with 25mm cable so long as I protect it with a suitable fuse.

I'm not sure I could achieve the bending radius required on such meaty cable, but I appreciate the offer.

 
50mm would be hellish stuff.

The size of the cable is a real trade off between ease of working and working load. It would seem some of these winches can theoretically pull huge currents at full torque (350+A) but maybe only for a few seconds. I don't envisage getting the 3 tonne car axle deep so I am hoping that I can 'get away' with 25mm cable so long as I protect it with a suitable fuse.

I'm not sure I could achieve the bending radius required on such meaty cable, but I appreciate the offer.
Who de-scoobed that post?!

 
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