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So there's a nut on the back of the inverter on the cooling fins with the grounding symbol and the battery also has a small nut with the grounding symbol.
 
Sorry berserkerboy. I'm not allowed to answer this one. Binky said Ive got to leave the electrical side to the expert's 😜
Though I do know grounding and earthing are not the same (technically)
Grounding I believe is an American term for bonding. Earthing and bonding being one of the most complicated subjects you can encounter 😃.
 
bond between the earth nuts, (unless both of those are on the inverter). manuals usually state to bond batteries to inverter in the instructions. 6mm is best as it's regarded as strong enough to take a bashing without mechanical protection. The inverter will have a CPC (earth) in the circuit back to your CU.
 
Ah, cheers for that.(y). Yeah, the first pic is the battery and the second is the inverter.
Funny, I wondered if that was the solution but it wasn't clear in the manual. Excellent, nice, and easy.:cool:
 
Hmm. Bit of an issue: Solis specify 6mm cable for the inverter AC connection. So I bought 14m of SWA. It has OD of 15mm. However, the gland that the wire needs to go through is only 12mm.:(.
I can't go to a larger gland as the hole in the metal bracket that houses the gland is only 20mm diameter.
It's possible to clamp the inner sheath of the SWA as it is 11mm diameter.
Any suggestions?
 
:). I think I've probably answered my own question here. I obviously don't need SWA all the way to the gland. I'll just strip it back to the point where I fix it to the wall.:)
 
Hmm. Bit of an issue: Solis specify 6mm cable for the inverter AC connection. So I bought 14m of SWA. It has OD of 15mm. However, the gland that the wire needs to go through is only 12mm.:(.
I can't go to a larger gland as the hole in the metal bracket that houses the gland is only 20mm diameter.
It's possible to clamp the inner sheath of the SWA as it is 11mm diameter.
Any suggestions?
Terminate SWA to an adaptable box, then run 6mm from there to inverter. Ideally use hituf or ho7rn flex, coz it's round and can just about be jammed through the patheticly small gland
 
Still waiting for the electrician to come and rearrange my CU so that circuits are not sharing the RCD with solar and connect the SWA from the inverter to CU.
Just wondering: Plug-in solar insisted on a lockable fused switch between the micro-inverters and the CU. Do I need to do the same with the new hybrid inverter? It's not showing on the wiring diagram but is it part of the UK regs?
Thanks
 
Yes. You can't have too many safety features.
I have 4 in total
2 DC
1 between the battery's and inverter (fused one) and 1 between the panels and the inverter
2 AC
Both between the inverter and the CU (main line and backup line)
 
I don't think they need to be fused between the inverter and CU just a isolator switch. I'm sure a expert can confirm this
 
I bought one of these as an isolator.
I need to run swa to it and then 11mm diameter cable to the load. (inverter).
Described as having 20mm and 25mm knockouts I bought 20mm swa gland kit and 20mm nylon glands.
However, these do not work as the housing has reinforcing inside, meaning that the glands do not protrude enough inside to get the nut on.
Anyone had this kind of issue before?IMG_20230306_205126_814[1].jpg

https://www.toolstation.com/imo-stag-lever-type-isolator/p93673
 
I bought one of these as an isolator.
I need to run swa to it and then 11mm diameter cable to the load. (inverter).
Described as having 20mm and 25mm knockouts I bought 20mm swa gland kit and 20mm nylon glands.
However, these do not work as the housing has reinforcing inside, meaning that the glands do not protrude enough inside to get the nut on.
Anyone had this kind of issue before?View attachment 15062

https://www.toolstation.com/imo-stag-lever-type-isolator/p93673
It's sounds like it's designed for grommets only. Any cables leaving that enclosure need clipping to prevent any tugging on the connections.
 
Thanks all. Yeah looks like trouble. The knockouts are too close to the side wall to get a nut on, so maybe grommet only. Hopefully I'll get an answer from the manufacturer tomorrow.
I liked the look of it compared to a rotary isolator.:(
I'll have to take it back to Toolstation.
 
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