Downlight and Kingspan

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by removing the insulation you have caused a cold spot around the fitting that may fail building regs if the spots are fitted to a loft space then use boxes over the spot and lay the insulation over that.

if the are cut into a vaulted/dormer ceiling and the void is fitted with kingspan I would not remove the insulation but tell the customer of the problems and the cold spots it would produce and would be a none compliance to building regs
Turn on the lights 200 deg hot spot nowROTFWL

 
I did a job with kingspan in the extension roof space, I pre cut 150mm before the platerboard was fitted to accomodate the downlights. Then cut the 65mm holes for the downlights giving me adequate spacing but one hell of a headache measuring :)
i done that on an extension a while back....

building inspector turned up to inspect some other work, saw the holes, and demanded insulation be put above the 150mm holes i made....

 
It also depends on how much Kingspan they use one job about 2 years back with flat roof builder used 3x2'' sheets.

we just removed 450 out of the first 2 making a nice little box, inspector was happy

 
Their a pain in the backside, connectors that don't house 2 x T+E, they fall apart with their cheap clips, when you pull them out the ceiling it's like handling mouse traps !!

They ban 100 watt bulbs and we replace them withh 400 watt GU10's, then they burn the house down !!

 
I would agree with Adrian. You can't override building regs with manufacturers instructions.

Insulation isn't allowed to be broken. I never install recessed lights in flat roofs or vaulted ceilings when they're full of insulation. I seem to remember the NICEIC publishing an article in professional magazine about it some time ago.

 
Down Lighters? downlighter?! Oh no, no they are so so passe, so yesterday, No my dear what you want is danglers, so retro they are NOW, and so in your face, and if you leave the shade off the warm cosy glow from your low energy lamp will give the atmosphere of an East German prison cell.

I generaly give the customer the neat round of plaster board and tell them to keep it safe for when they want to replace the the downlights and fill the hole up.

 
I have been reading this thread with interest and I think I may have something to contribute to the discussion.

I'm sure someone will correct me if i'm wrong, but as far as I know, dichrioc throw heat backwards and light forwards; these are actually GZ10 lamps

GZ lampholders will take either GZ10(dichroic) or the normal GU10

True GU10 holders have a bevel - as does the lamp - which prevents dichroics from being fitted

the thinking was that it would would prevent dichroics from being fitted where heat ambient was a concern

 
Next time get in the built cycle earlier and specify a warm roof.

 
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