Earthed through gland plate screws only

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The reason for an earth tag is to tag an earth onto the gland,to increase surface area contact you would have to remove ALL paint from gland area of the plate and after youve finished all the glanding repaint the gland plate to prevent corrosion this could be difficult if it,s close to a ceiling for example which i think is why some times there on the inside.

yours benji

 
The reason for an earth tag is to tag an earth onto the gland,to increase surface area contact you would have to remove ALL paint from gland area of the plate and after youve finished all the glanding repaint the gland plate to prevent corrosion this could be difficult if it,s close to a ceiling for example which i think is why some times there on the inside.yours benji
But if you take a lead from fixing screw to earth bar there is no need to do this.

 
exactly so it makes no difference wether it,s on the outside or inside and the extra surface area of the tag is of no effect unless you remove the coating down to bright metal and then youve got corrosion problems

yours benji

 
I still think they should be on the top, I'd like to see an expert opinion, Perhaps if I email one of the cable companies .

None of the "insider" guys have actually said why they changed their work methods or was that how they were shown in college.

 
I still think they should be on the top, I'd like to see an expert opinion, Perhaps if I email one of the cable companies .None of the "insider" guys have actually said why they changed their work methods or was that how they were shown in college.
See post #40 :innocent

 
I guess old habits die hard. I served my time, and worked for 25 years in a plaster/plasterboard factory. Every panel/DB had a 3" plus layer of dust on top. If the banjos were on the outside you couldn't see them!Most of my work now is on farms, similar problem, different material!

I'll continue putting mine (mostly) on the inside, thanks!
I think I would as well. pooooo :)

 
See post #40 :innocent
OK I looked at Post 40. No different to industrial carp on top of board or a mountain of paper dust as at the printers I look after, clean it off and Hey Presto banjos go on the top .

I still think you are doing it wrong TBH , any "Insiders" members of the NICEIC or simlilar, have they not commented on it ?

 
OK I looked at Post 40. No different to industrial carp on top of board or a mountain of paper dust as at the printers I look after, clean it off and Hey Presto banjos go on the top . I still think you are doing it wrong TBH , any "Insiders" members of the NICEIC or simlilar, have they not commented on it ?
I'm not wrong!

I am competent to make a decision and I have made it. You may make a different decision, that does NOT make me wrong.

Please do not quote what NIC say, I lost respect in that lot many years ago.

I can (and have) justified my method.

Your assertion about contact area holds good only if the banjo is not bonded, you can read my views on this in post #3

Wind ya neck in!

 
I'm just discussing it mate , as we do on here, no need to sling insults , why are you getting so annoyed ? Don't bother to answer , life is too short for that attitude.
You've asked me not to answer, but I will anyway.

Why did I get annoyed? You asked for reasons and I gave them, you asked again and I pointed you to my original reply, you then tell me I'm wrong!

If I've caused offence, then I apologise.

 
Just a quicky, need sleep!!!

Inside:

Can only be accessed by competent persons "officially" thus less chance of inadvertent disconnection of safety "devices"

On IP rated plastic enclosures you can take the earth bond through the enclosure whilst complying with 7671 & not reducing the IP rating of the enclosure. very important in areas with external influence BE2.

Will be back ASAP, got a lot on this week & next, so if I'm not around sorry all!

 
You've asked me not to answer, but I will anyway.Why did I get annoyed? You asked for reasons and I gave them, you asked again and I pointed you to my original reply, you then tell me I'm wrong!

If I've caused offence, then I apologise.
Thanks Riggs, I was only persisting to find out which is correct method, or if either is acceptable.

 
Ive been on jobs that have been knocked back because the banjos have not been visible to the inspectors.

also, I done a lot a lot a lot of work on farms etc in my youth and always always put banjos on the outside,

at the final say its down to a personal preference,

no one is to say they are right or wrong,

but you never know who is coming behind you to do a pir and code all your inside banjos number 1s.................

ROTFWL ROTFWL ROTFWL

 
Just flicked through the most recent "Connections" mag and there is an article on this.. will have to read it and report back!

but up to now I've always been an outsider... especially on PVC boxes as it help to stop them "pulling through"

 
Thats odd that is... plastic boxes is one of the few times I put them inside... trapped between two locknuts and the tag bent out a bit in order to attach lug... was always taught that banjo between plastic and metal isn't good because they have different coefficents of thermal expansion, so can end up loose, hence trap it between two locknuts

 
One thing I think that should be considered with plastic enclosures, typically IP65 is with the banjo on the outside if you drill through you compromise the enclosure and it no longer meets manufacturers design specs, also if you bend the banjo up and tag on an earth then drill a hole in the box and run the earth through without a gland you again compromise the IP again and again it no longer meets manuf' specs.

I do a lot of work where BE2 applies, the number of sparks I follow that drill a 6mm hole in the top of an ip65 isolator then drop a 2.5 or 4mm sq g/y through to the inside beggars belief.

IP rating, what ip rating. If the customers place goes up in flames I hope their insurance will pay out when they have gone against "regs", and manuf' instructions!!!

 
One thing I think that should be considered with plastic enclosures, typically IP65 is with the banjo on the outside if you drill through you compromise the enclosure and it no longer meets manufacturers design specs, also if you bend the banjo up and tag on an earth then drill a hole in the box and run the earth through without a gland you again compromise the IP again and again it no longer meets manuf' specs.I do a lot of work where BE2 applies, the number of sparks I follow that drill a 6mm hole in the top of an ip65 isolator then drop a 2.5 or 4mm sq g/y through to the inside beggars belief.

IP rating, what ip rating. If the customers place goes up in flames I hope their insurance will pay out when they have gone against "regs", and manuf' instructions!!!
I bet I could probably walk into virtually anywhere and find something that wasnt

"to the regs"

faults can be found if they are looked for in any situation.

 
Hi all,

Well, i will stick my newbie neck out here and tell you all how i do it. Constructive comments please!

I hope what i do, is at least better than some of the crap i have seen....

When i fit the banjos, [would NEVER fit a gland without one] half the time there is not enough room to fit them on the inside anyway, so here is what i do..

1, Fit the gland and the banjo on the outside fairly loosely.

2, Drill a hole to bolt the banjo to and scrape the paint from around the hole.

3, To bolt banjos i use a plain washer on the banjo side and a spring washer [i thought it would "Dig in" and give a good contact better] on the "other" side. I will then bolt it up using a HT bolt well tight!!

4, I will now do the banjo up tight too.

5, Although it would be nice to fit a flylead to every gland, there is not room usually [you lot must work on some BIG stuff!!] so here is what i do:

A, I will fit the incoming supply cable gland, and when i do, apart from bolting the banjo to the gland plate [if any] in addition, i will also run a flylead from the banjo, direct to the earth bar in the DB. From there, i will also run one to a bolted connection in the side of the DB.

B, Then i will fit all the other glands [with bolted banjos as i have explained] and i will run ANOTHER fly lead from one of the bolted banjo connections on the gland plate, and connect this to my bolted connection on the side of the DB [and hence to the earth bar] too, to make well and trully sure that all the glands for the outgoing circuits are not merely reliant on the "self tappers" for earth continuity, cos the incoming supply cable, might well not be in the same gland plate as some of the outgoing cables.

For my "flyleads" i will choose a cable the same size as one of the incoming phase conductors.

If i am fitting more than one cable, to say an adaptable box, or a small enclosure, i will link ALL the banjos directly together with flyleads. For example, the other day i had to fit an RCD in a small enclosure, so i linked the "in and "out" glands, directly together with a flylead from their banjos.

Idea is that, especially if it is a very small box or enclosure, unless you really want to sit around calculating the cross sectional area of the box itself, and dividing this by about 9 to find the "copper equivalent" of the tin box, and then comparing this with the CSA of the cable CPC, it is a lot quicker just to fit two lugs to a piece of suitably sized earth cable and connect this directly between the banjos, and GUARANTEE earth continuity. That is my little theory anyway!!!

I hope i am doing it right............[hopefully].......

[Tin helmet on ready for incoming fire!!!!!]

john..

 
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