GulfStream SS30 Help

[russ9898]

Hi guys,

I know this isnt strictly electrical but iirc we have a couple of heating engineers on the forum. My parents have a Gulfstream SS30 installed in their house and recently it appears that the top and middle floor of the house have no/little heating.

I'm lead to beleive that the property has 2 heating zones, one for the ground floor which ill call zone 1 and one for the upper and middle floors which ill call zone 2.

Zone 1 appears to be working fine with the radiators getting red hot and the place generally being kept at a comfortable temperature.

Zone 2 however is another story. The place is freezing all the time, most the rad's are stone cold and the odd couple are look warm at best. Ive bled the rads and none had any air in with water flowing straight away from them. This unfortunately is about as deep as my plumbing knowledge goes.

The hot water is working fine and a constant stream of hot water is always available.

Electrically it all seems to check out (im a qualified electrician btw) The room stats on both floors are getting 230v as required. As i said zone 1 is working spot on so i have swapped the room stat from zone 1 with zone 2 to eliminate the possibility of a faulty stat. I'm now completely lost and was wondering if anyone could help me at all?

The stats installed in the property are Honeywell CM67's.

Thanks in advance for any help provided and if ive left out any information which may help you diagnose the fault then please shout up.

Thanks again,

Russ

 

[Andy™]

have you checked the zone valves/3 port valve is working?

 

[batty]

Is the motorized valve open if not you usually you can open them manually. If it is open then I would think it is a circulation problem with water. JL Heating probably is the man with ideas.

Batty

 

[NozSpark]

Russ,

You say that you have checked out the stats, but have you checked out the zone valves.

I am guessing that it is a 'S' plan plus installation.

Just remove the valve heads and call for heat on the zones, you should see the mechanics moving and when it gets to the stop, the boiler and pump should operate

DON'T LEAVE IT ON FOR LONG OR YOU WILL BLOW UP THE BOILER IF THE VALVE IS SHUT unless you have a by-pass plumbed in that is!!

 

[russ9898]

Sorry to sound dumb here, but how do i check if the 3port valve is working correctly? Ive had a look at it but unfortunately this particular boiler's layout doesnt lend its self to being particularly accesable

 

[Andy™]

you should be able to hear it changing when demand changes (youll have to get you ear againt it). depending on model, you might see the level moving.

 

[russ9898]

Right ive got the front of the boiler anyway.

When i call for heating on zone 1 the level on the valve moved from one end to the other. It doesnt however seem to drop back out again until i turn the boiler on and off

If i call for heating on zone 2 then the level on the valve never moves even after a few minutes of waiting.

 

[batty]

Sounds like valve is us, can it not be opened manually.

Batty

 

[Andy™]

if you take the head off (thats if it has a removable head), you can manually move the valve to either side. if doing this gives you heating, then the motor needs replaced

 

[russ9898]

Access is a real problem to all the boiler equipment. Ive just discovered another honeywell valve underneath a false floor which the boiler is mounted on. I have about an inch/inch and half viewing space of this valve. ive flipped the leaver from auto to manual. Will see if that does anything.

 

[batty]

You don't normally have valves in the boiler altough some do.

Batty

 

[russ9898]

Another Update-

The valve i mentioned in my last post appears to be for the downstairs (zone1) heating. Ive just found another valve for the upstairs (zone2) heating. I flipped the lever from auto to manual and sure enough the rads came to life. It's in a right swine of a place and i could only see it using the ade of a mirror and a torch lol. Not sure how well get to it if it needs replacing but well cross that bridge when we come to it.

Just waiting for the rads to cool down before i bang the heating on at the stat (valve is now back on auto) and see if the rads warm up again. Hopefully ive unstuck it by moving the lever

fingers crossed

thanks again for the help

 

[batty]

Only the older honeywell valves cannot have the heads replacing so with a bit of luck you maybe able to replace just the head if its gone.

Batty

 

[Andy™]

well if it works by pressing the level then its probably just the motor thats gone. depending on model, they can be very easy to change the head

 

[russ9898]

Is changing the head a case of just bolt on bolt off? no plumbing as such involved?

The valve is a Honeywell V4043H1056

So if looking on the internet serves me right its a v4043 and the head alone is just h1056.

Any idea where i can get one from on a Sunday? Is it likely B&Q will sell them?

 

[Badger]

they will be a plumers item not b and q i wouldnt have thought

and i would say the unit/valve that needs changing is plumbing realeted ie changing the head wont cure it, or am i worng on that folks

 

[Andy™]

usually remove metal cover, and there is a screw/bolt or 2 holding it on. remove, and screw new head on. then change the flex and your done

 

[batty]

screwfix sell the whole thing for

 

[russ9898]

thanks for the help guys. I will buy the full valve i think. The house is only 2years old so would imagine the head could be changed. If it fails to work then ill swap the whole thing over. Ill give bq a shot, if not ill order from screwfix. Thanks again guys. Ps sorry for the poor grammar im replying on my phone

 

[batty]

Very unusual for Honeywell stuff only to last for two years maybe someone put a secondhand one in.

Batty