How to reinstate the IP rating of a consumer unit

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flyingspark

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Hello,

Please can anyone advise me on how to reinstate the IP rating of a consumer unit after you have cut out some of the tabs on the unit cover to allow for outgoing the cable?

I am going to use this installation as one for my domestic installer assessment, and I am desperate not to fail on something like this. The gaps around each out-going cable are say 2mm, but to be IP4X it should be protected against objects >1mm. I don

 
I usually install a peice of 50mm trunking at the tope of the consumer unit then you can cut out a large tab from the cunsumer unit and something similar on the trunking and keep your IP rating, this also allows you to cut the cable sheaves off early to make running them into the c/u easier and keep your double protection.

 
I do what Blue fox does, if this is not possible just silicone the cutouts, simple remedy but works.

 
i normally use hager boards and they come with two lengths of foam for just this purpose, they fit inside the cu, the length of the top and bottom cut out sections, takes a few seconds to fit and the foam fits snuggly around the cables as they enter.

 
Thanks everyone for replying so quickly.

As I have already installed the consumer unit I think I will either go with the 'liquid trunking' or, shaping & gluing a piece of blanking plate on suggestions*, but in future I will consider the 50mm trunking option for plastic units, it makes a lot of sense.

*Is this an approved method, ie accecpted by an assessor?

Many thanks once more.

 
The only thing your assessor will look for is the finger test.

This is not a fat finger but a calculated tool test to prove no live parts can be touched.

I normally fix domestic consumer units off wall ie two lengths of three by two, and feed all cables via the rear. If this is not possible then use the cut outs in the top, or bottom and seal afterwards with silicone.

If most of my cables are top entry I use a length of 50mm trunking on top of the consumer unit this covers all entry holes and looks pretty neat.

 
The other way is to batten off the wall and use the rear entries (tried that on the missus once too) so no knockouts at all, and certainly not where an assessor can get his finger too.

 
could even try a bit of plumbers mait .....non setting putty type stuff which is more solid than the supplied foam

 
Some may think Stevie h's answer a little over the top, but cast your minds back to when you had to mount with a fireguard if mounting a cu to flammable surfaces.

Makes sense to use an heat resistant(fire proof) sealer.

( I use silicone) shame on me.

 
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