yes, on my morris
the bar that goes side to side at back from chassis to axle, stops the axle moving side to side
the bar that goes side to side at back from chassis to axle, stops the axle moving side to side
More Car Woes - Fed Up :(
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I think I remember such things .
My old gaffer was still using Morris 1000 vans , 6 of them I think . Very rugged. He had one Escort which had morning starting problems , so that meant they were all $hite . I used to say , look , theres dozens of them passing the office every morning , but he wouldn't have it.
I managed to transfer to the Escort eventually ( prefer Fords) Gaffer was concerned as I was the only one who didn't start at the office every day ,(living 25 miles away) All the starting problem was , they were flooding the carb every morning , just turn the key and off it went , good van , must have been the MK 2 Escort 1100cc.
My old gaffer was still using Morris 1000 vans , 6 of them I think . Very rugged. He had one Escort which had morning starting problems , so that meant they were all $hite . I used to say , look , theres dozens of them passing the office every morning , but he wouldn't have it.
I managed to transfer to the Escort eventually ( prefer Fords) Gaffer was concerned as I was the only one who didn't start at the office every day ,(living 25 miles away) All the starting problem was , they were flooding the carb every morning , just turn the key and off it went , good van , must have been the MK 2 Escort 1100cc.
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I like volvos we have a V40 that we have had for years V reg think it was about three year old when we brought it. Had no major issues with it granted we don't do lots of miles but it is reliable and a nice car. I can use it for work if van is of road.
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Point taken about thee PUG I did have my doubts but thought I'd ask the question. Back to my car, given that the EGR is now blanked, do you think removing the stepper motor from the top of it and leaving it free of the mechanism will fool the ECU into thinking its actually moving the valve?
The thing is I can't sell it as it is and not sure I would even get away with trading it. ABS has to be the rear hub as it was never an issue until I changed both hubs last summer. I would be happy to get £2K for the car and just cut my losses.
The thing is I can't sell it as it is and not sure I would even get away with trading it. ABS has to be the rear hub as it was never an issue until I changed both hubs last summer. I would be happy to get £2K for the car and just cut my losses.
jus dont take it to a garage - they might apply your rate #4 to fix the problem
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I think you are safe with a trade in, or even a private sale, sold as seen. you probably won't get much at auction. Ecen ebay would be okay if you described all the faults, but then you won't get much for it.
I had egr issues on my zaf a while ago. How did you blank it off. Basically the valves get stuck. With mine if it stuck open the gasses continued re circulating and choke the car at low revs. I blanked off with it bolted to side. It was then fine if it stuck open. Got light bit run fine. Then one day it stuck closed and for some crazy reason it retarded the engine again. Even though no gases could circulate. I just unplugged it. Still light on but runs fine. Will replace it for mot on may. 35 quid for a cheapo off eBay. This time seems though it isn't in the engine it shouldn't stick...
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Somebody mentioned CAN bus (should be re named con bus) I'll tell you why I hate it.
In the old days, a reversing light would have a wire from the cars fuse box to a switch on the gearbox, and another wire from that switch to a reversing light (p.s my Landrover pre dates reversing lights so does not even have that "complication"
On Mrs PD's VW Touran, the reversing lights have stopped working, and it's not the lamps or the holders. This also means the "lamp fail" light on the dashboard is on. So that's two reasons it will fail an MOT until the fault is fixed.
Now the point of putting CAN bus on vehicles was the whole lot is built into the light fitting, so CAN bus and power to every light. job done. Simple wiring, but expensive parts.
But on the Touran there is no CAN bus module built into the reversing lights. Instead (so I am told) the CAN bus module for the reversing lights is in the A post on the drivers side near the seat belt inertia reel. Quite how that fits with the philosophy of simplified wiring beats me.
I'm waiting for better weather (and motivation) to go looking for this module to see if it's just a wiring fault from there to the reversing lights, or as I was suggested, it's prone to getting damp there.
Are there any cars made now that do NOT use CAN bus for everything?
In the old days, a reversing light would have a wire from the cars fuse box to a switch on the gearbox, and another wire from that switch to a reversing light (p.s my Landrover pre dates reversing lights so does not even have that "complication"
On Mrs PD's VW Touran, the reversing lights have stopped working, and it's not the lamps or the holders. This also means the "lamp fail" light on the dashboard is on. So that's two reasons it will fail an MOT until the fault is fixed.
Now the point of putting CAN bus on vehicles was the whole lot is built into the light fitting, so CAN bus and power to every light. job done. Simple wiring, but expensive parts.
But on the Touran there is no CAN bus module built into the reversing lights. Instead (so I am told) the CAN bus module for the reversing lights is in the A post on the drivers side near the seat belt inertia reel. Quite how that fits with the philosophy of simplified wiring beats me.
I'm waiting for better weather (and motivation) to go looking for this module to see if it's just a wiring fault from there to the reversing lights, or as I was suggested, it's prone to getting damp there.
Are there any cars made now that do NOT use CAN bus for everything?
It gets worse. I decided today to get another hub and change out the other side too. What else can it be? there was no problem before I changed the hubs last year (apart from noise) anyway happy days part arrived this aft. Got home straight under car and got the old one off in a jiffy. Got new one out of box.... wrong one... gutted.. so leaving it out on axle stands til tomorrow now.
maybe disturbed a connection somewhere? done that to mine replacing some ball joints. then accidently ripped the wire out completely few weeks later replacing CV
If your egr is blanked the fault will have to be mapped out by a garage with the right knowledge and kit 
If you are still getting abs light? could it be abs/speed sensor? Modern cars have sensors bloody every where! its easy for them to be knocked/come loose or even get dirt on this will throw up faults.
If you are still getting abs light? could it be abs/speed sensor? Modern cars have sensors bloody every where! its easy for them to be knocked/come loose or even get dirt on this will throw up faults.
Just changed the LHR wheel bearing/hub assy and all is well with the ABS light. Only changed the hubs last summer so they will be going back for a refund. Engine light remains on but performance wise the car has been fine today. I think light will stay on as long as the blank plate stays in.
Well just a note Rev. IF you are out driving and it starts playing up as if it was the egr. pop the bonnet and unplug the egr. It will be well worth a try. worked a treat for me when I has miles from home and it started running like a t**t. It is dangerous trying to drive while it is playing up. If it acts like mine did, juddering and cutting out when revs drop, not starting straight back up. Did a couple of short runs home (before we knew the problem) having to keep right foot on accelerator and left foot braking / clutching. Doable, but ropey
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apparently the 1.6 tdci/HDi engine is a bit temperamental and can get a quite a few problems. earlier versions of the 1.8 tdci also had issues. the 1.4 tdci on the other hand has proven itself to be pretty reliable for the most part, with the one in our car having what seemed like a major issue, it simply turned out to be a seal between the injector and the block (leaking diesel and a puffing noise). total cost of the part: £1.50. a local garage were looking at about £250 to fix it, and i didnt even ask ford.......
all it took in the end was a couple of hours and some online instructions, problem gone. still fine a year later. (this is an 07 plate fusion 1.4 tdci).
the 2.0 diesles are also apparently pretty good (aside from the dual-mass flywheels, problematic on EVERY car that has them i think)
all it took in the end was a couple of hours and some online instructions, problem gone. still fine a year later. (this is an 07 plate fusion 1.4 tdci).
the 2.0 diesles are also apparently pretty good (aside from the dual-mass flywheels, problematic on EVERY car that has them i think)
Latest update, ABS issues well and truly sorted. Removed the EGR valve completely and found all the electronics in the top of the stepper motor were burned out. As there is a sensor that reports EGR valve position back to the ECU then its not possible to run without it connected. I had no option but to replace the whole assembly. Found one online for £96 delivered so ordered it and stuck it on the car. Went to work and had one of the guys in the garage re set all the errors and all seemed well. Used car all weekend. On monday night the engine management light came back on and the car was working at reduced power.
Took it back to the garage and plugged diagnostics in. More EGR valve errors. so tonight I cleaned out the MAF sensors, throttle body, inlet, air filter etc and removed the blanking plate that I fitted with the EGR. Car starts and runs fine but when you get up to speed then come down again to a slow speed, the power loss comes in. Switch ignition off and re start engine and you get full power again.
so - start and run and its fine until you slow down then there is a significant power loss. Switching off seems to re set and there is power again until you slow down again.
I thought a new EGR needed some sort of re calibration but the mechanic at work disagreed. I'm beginning to think it may need to go into a main stealer - I mean dealer?
Took it back to the garage and plugged diagnostics in. More EGR valve errors. so tonight I cleaned out the MAF sensors, throttle body, inlet, air filter etc and removed the blanking plate that I fitted with the EGR. Car starts and runs fine but when you get up to speed then come down again to a slow speed, the power loss comes in. Switch ignition off and re start engine and you get full power again.
so - start and run and its fine until you slow down then there is a significant power loss. Switching off seems to re set and there is power again until you slow down again.
I thought a new EGR needed some sort of re calibration but the mechanic at work disagreed. I'm beginning to think it may need to go into a main stealer - I mean dealer?
You were right the first time Revo , sorry to hear you're car problems .... Main Stealer may be the right road to take....unfortunately
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