Permanent power to the shed.

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Hoping for help?
I've had my shed wired up a couple of years, a lighting circuit and a ring main with 5 double socket. I've ran an extension cable to the consumer unit and it's worked fine.
Now the reason for my call for help! I've just installed some 3 core 2.5mm swa (15/20 metres) from the house cu to the shed.
Just keeps tripping? SWA seems OK, checked continuity.
As soon as I turn on light or socket/radio, trip? Trips the house rcd.
Going to double check shed tomorrow but can't think what why.
Any assistance appreciated.
 
Hoping for help?
I've had my shed wired up a couple of years, a lighting circuit and a ring main with 5 double socket. I've ran an extension cable to the consumer unit and it's worked fine.
Now the reason for my call for help! I've just installed some 3 core 2.5mm swa (15/20 metres) from the house cu to the shed.
Just keeps tripping? SWA seems OK, checked continuity.
As soon as I turn on light or socket/radio, trip? Trips the house rcd.
Going to double check shed tomorrow but can't think what why.
Any assistance appreciated.
 

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Why have you connected a T&E cable through an SWA cable gland at that isolator it will not be sealed.
Which circuit is it at the consumer unit, the grey (neutral) is in the wrong neutral bar.
How is the SWA connected at the house consumer unit is it through that nylon gland.
 
Why have you connected a T&E cable through an SWA cable gland at that isolator it will not be sealed.
Which circuit is it at the consumer unit, the grey (neutral) is in the wrong neutral bar.
How is the SWA connected at the house consumer unit is it through that nylon gland.
The swa is through the gland.
Grey is from swa, ok I'll change to the other bar.
T & E was just easier, I'll change when it's working. I know :😀
Thanks
 
The armour must be earthed and connected through a suitable gland.
 
Thanks, I've got them, I'll sort it tomorrow and the isolation switch. 🫥
you need to swap over the grey nylon gland from the consumer unit with the brass one in the isolator for the T+E, then buy a 20mm piranha lock nut 1690735114767.png for the consumer unit in the house for the SWA and run a fly lead the the earthing terminal, this will save you drilling a hole in the board for a good earth connection, Do this before you use the supply in the shed again
 
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Why have you done the shed sockets as a ring?

And what is the reason for the big external isolator switch?

I would think this work should have electrical certificates and Part-P compliance notification issued.. Have you got someone who is going to check it all complies with current BS7671?

Probably don't even need a CU in the shed TBH... Just a switched fused spur to connect the shed lights onto?

Could have just run the SWA direct into a metal clad socket or switch in the shed....
Save a buying a load of unnecessary kit to me?
 
Why have you done the shed sockets as a ring?

And what is the reason for the big external isolator switch?

I would think this work should have electrical certificates and Part-P compliance notification issued.. Have you got someone who is going to check it all complies with current BS7671?

Probably don't even need a CU in the shed TBH... Just a switched fused spur to connect the shed lights onto?

Could have just run the SWA direct into a metal clad socket or switch in the shed....
Save a buying a load of unnecessary kit to me?
below could be an answer


I knew I knew just enough to get into trouble but not enough to get out of.
 
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