S-Plan Wiring

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68jcb

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Hi, we recently built a new extension and have decided to do 2 separate zones, one for each side of the house(new and old side). We have a Worcester 37cdi boiler, 2 x 2 port danfoss valves 1x Honeywell cm927 wireless room stat (programmable) and a salus rt500rf room stat (programmable). Can someone give me advice on how to connect all this together. Boiler already up and running as it is in the old part of the house, all new manifolds and pluming on new side, zone valves installed but actuators not mounted yet. 

Honeywell room stat is already connected to the boiler.

Any help or advice would be most welcome, thanks for reading.

 
You will need an electrician with experience in heating control wiring to do this, its not a wiring by numbers exercise.

 
2 port valves are really simple, I much prefer multiple 2 port valves to a lesser number of 3 port ones.

The brown and blue wires from the valve are the motor connections. Energise these and the valves open. So blue to neutral, and brown to live via the room thermostat. So when the room stat calls for heat the valve opens.

The Orange and Grey wires from the valve are a switch contact in the valve that closes when the valve is in the open position. So connect the orange and grey from both valves in parallel, and connect these to the boilers "room thermostat" terminals.

Then when either room stat calls for heat, it opens it's valve, and turns the boiler on.

If you want to add a time clock into the mix, then the "Heating on" output from the time clock will be the live feed to both of the room thermostats, so they are only active when you want the heating on.

Simples.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
2 port valves are really simple, I much prefer multiple 2 port valves to a lesser number of 3 port ones.

The brown and blue wires from the valve are the motor connections. Energise these and the valves open. So blue to neutral, and brown to live via the room thermostat. So when the room stat calls for heat the valve opens.

The Orange and Grey wires from the valve are a switch contact in the valve that closes when the valve is in the open position. So connect the orange and grey from both valves in parallel, and connect these to the boilers "room thermostat" terminals.

Then when either room stat calls for heat, it opens it's valve, and turns the boiler on.

If you want to add a time clock into the mix, then the "Heating on" output from the time clock will be the live feed to both of the room thermostats, so they are only active when you want the heating on.

Simples.

Apologies to Dave for the DeScoob - my fat fingers I'm afraid - meant to Scoob!

Perhaps Admin can undo?

 
Thank you for all your replies, zones have now been wired and are now working as they should.

I did the wiring on the new extension but its been a while since I've done any work on heating controllers.  Thanks to forums like this and folks willing to help it makes life a lot easier.

 
Canoeboy said:
Now everyones colour blind as well ?

:pmsl1:
On an electricians forum? Never.

But remember someone changed the meaning of red and green and up and down on isolator switches in the past, so no wonder people get confused.

 
maybe if someone says they scoobed wrong, they should have a 3 month ban on scoobing anyone?

On an electricians forum? Never.

But remember someone changed the meaning of red and green and up and down on isolator switches in the past, so no wonder people get confused.
i know a mechanic / auto electrician who is colour blind...

 
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