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Would appreciate some advice from those who get involved in this, as it is not something I've had any dealings with other than providing supplies. But I am planning on putting electric underfloor heating in my new conservatory. Not intending it to be the primary source of heating, just to take the chill off the tiles.
1) How important is insulated backer board, considering there is 100mm of king span in the floor slab, would I be looking at unacceptably long warm up times if I omitted it? The reason I ask if the floor has to fit under a step. Laying the tile directly upon the floor slab I measure a 10mm gap, which has to cover the heating element, adhesive and any insulation. It sounds like 6mm of insulation would not leave enough for the rest?
2) I have seen on here that many recommend feeding the floor probe into a piece of 15mm HEP20 pipe to enable removal, Obviously to fit this under the heating the slab is going to have to be chopped out a bit especially to accomodate the bend radius. So this would put the probe halfway between the floor and the stab (which isn't heated due to the insulation) This doesn't result in inaccurate control?. Also, The probe does not need to be bedded in the adhesive to acheive thermal contact with the floor I guess?
3) What power level would one recommend. 150W/M² or 100, or 200?
Sorry for the 101 type questions, never laid the matting myself before :Blushing
1) How important is insulated backer board, considering there is 100mm of king span in the floor slab, would I be looking at unacceptably long warm up times if I omitted it? The reason I ask if the floor has to fit under a step. Laying the tile directly upon the floor slab I measure a 10mm gap, which has to cover the heating element, adhesive and any insulation. It sounds like 6mm of insulation would not leave enough for the rest?
2) I have seen on here that many recommend feeding the floor probe into a piece of 15mm HEP20 pipe to enable removal, Obviously to fit this under the heating the slab is going to have to be chopped out a bit especially to accomodate the bend radius. So this would put the probe halfway between the floor and the stab (which isn't heated due to the insulation) This doesn't result in inaccurate control?. Also, The probe does not need to be bedded in the adhesive to acheive thermal contact with the floor I guess?
3) What power level would one recommend. 150W/M² or 100, or 200?
Sorry for the 101 type questions, never laid the matting myself before :Blushing