wireless central heating room stat wiring..

[monkey5]

evening, been asked to fit a wireless stat but never done one. has anyone got any advice.

cheers wayne

 

[Lurch]

Basically the same as a normal one, but with a wireless bit.

You'll have a wireless transmitter\receiver unit that you wire up in the same way as a normal stat with the room stat itself wirelessly linked. As I always say to just about anything, RTFM. It'll all become clear.

 

[NozSpark]

I do a lot of the Salus ones - the RT300RF wireless digital roomstat and the RT500RF wireless digital programmer...

These all have the same receiver unit L&N in with a COM/NO/NC switching... they come with a link from L to COM which I have found needs to be removed... if you take the power from the timeclock (which you would if you leave the link in) then when the timeclock turns off and then back on you can get a communication problem.

So I now always wire them with a permanent L&N and take the timeclock output to the COM and then NO to the boiler demand.

They also have jumpers to select 0.5 & 1.0 degree increments (leave at 0.5) and a set of 5 jumpers to code the receiver and transmitter (make sure these are the same random code)

HTH

 

[wozz]

i use the drayton ones, wilts are doing them at a reasonable price now, they are rebranded.

 

[jl-heating]

we use the ravenheat ones .. less than 50 for the full unit.. programmable room stats ..

we use 5 core from the reciever to the boiler makes a nicer job.

make sure its heat resitant though

 

[monkey5]

we use the ravenheat ones .. less than 50 for the full unit.. programmable room stats .. we use 5 core from the reciever to the boiler makes a nicer job.

make sure its heat resitant though

do you take the power from wiring centre or programmer/timer?

i was looking at the salus one

http://www.salus-tech.com/manuals/RT300RF.pdf

cheers

 

[monkey5]

I do a lot of the Salus ones - the RT300RF wireless digital roomstat and the RT500RF wireless digital programmer...These all have the same receiver unit L&N in with a COM/NO/NC switching... they come with a link from L to COM which I have found needs to be removed... if you take the power from the timeclock (which you would if you leave the link in) then when the timeclock turns off and then back on you can get a communication problem.

So I now always wire them with a permanent L&N and take the timeclock output to the COM and then NO to the boiler demand.

They also have jumpers to select 0.5 & 1.0 degree increments (leave at 0.5) and a set of 5 jumpers to code the receiver and transmitter (make sure these are the same random code)

HTH

sorry noz just realised you said you use the the salus ones. where do you take the com and no from, time clock do you mean the programmer (sorry not really done anything with central heating).

cheers

 

[NozSpark]

That all depends on the boiler / system you are connecting it to...

but COM to timed demand

and NO to heat demand

The plumber I sub for normally fits Worcester Bosch Combis, so I connect to RP & RS (IIRC) on those

HTH

 

[monkey5]

had a look in the "wiring centre" today and and found where the current room stat is connected (2 & 3 & neutral) would you disconnect this (if customer doesnt want to use it anymore)?

cheers wayne

 

[NozSpark]

There is a building reg that states that a roomstat must be fitted -- even if all the rads have TRVs!!

 

[monkey5]

There is a building reg that states that a roomstat must be fitted -- even if all the rads have TRVs!!

so leave it connected and just add new conductors to wireless transmitter in same terminals?

cheers

 

[NozSpark]

If you are wantong to replace a fixed stat with a wireless one then you need to disconnect the fixed one...

Lets assume the L to the old stat is a switched live from the programmer... connect this to the COM

Where the switched return from the existing stat is, connect this to NO

Then you need to find a permanent L & N

 

[monkey5]

in the wiring centre there is a 3 core and earth i assume these are going to the room stat, if i disconnected these and used 4 core (2-COM,3-ON, LIVE & NEUTRAL) to connect the reciever this will be fine wont it (terminal 2 is linked in wiring center to term 4)hope this makes sense

wayne

 

[batty]

There is a building reg that states that a roomstat must be fitted -- even if all the rads have TRVs!!

And a pig to check that heating system is working right if there is no stat.

 

[monkey5]

And a pig to check that heating system is working right if there is no stat.

would you leave the current one connected as well as the new wireless one?

 

[jl-heating]

if i was doing it ,

most boilers have a clock built in, fit a honeywell stat and use the wire already in the honeywell only switches on 2 wires park the earth .

the other way is use a wireless programmable room stat, place the reciever next to the boiler and run a 5 core to the reciever and then 5 core to the combi picking up the switch for the stat.

then fit the wireless programmable stat in the hall area ... full instructions are with the stat and very easy to read. also in the electrical part on the instuction manual for the boiler usually diagrams for the wiring of a wireless stat etc .

 

[batty]

would you leave the current one connected as well as the new wireless one?

Why do they want a wireless one if they already have a wired stat?

 

[monkey5]

Why do they want a wireless one if they already have a wired stat?

its been put in a really awkward place, moving it would be alot harder than fitting a wireless one. also would to be able to operate from all over house

 

[batty]

I would not think you could have a wired and wireless one operating one valve so wired one would have to be disconnected. I don't like wireless ones personally more to go wrong and batteries need replacing.

 

[Lurch]

Leave existing stat on wall or remove and fit blank plate.

Disconnect in wiring centre and connect new one.