17Th Edition Amend 3 Metal Consumer Units - Cable Entry.

[Murdoch]

Re metal CU's and cable entries.

I have just fitted a Hager metal board in my new build. It has a whole row of 20mm knock outs along the top and bottom, and larger round knock outs on each side (perfect for gland for large SWA entry), plus rectangular knock outs on the back.

That seems pretty versatile and should cover all bases.

What are other makes of metal CU offering?

In contrast, I had a CEF rep visit me today. One thing he was keen to show me was their own brand (M2) metal CU's which only had rear knock outs and side knock outs, none on the top or bottom.  I pointed out how limiting that was and showed him my Hager board.

It would be good if forum members as they install different makes of the new metal CU's could post a mini review of them, including their provision for cable entry knock outs.  That information is vital for choosing a CU as a replacement as it needs to match the installation.

Mate : could you start a thread for this precise reason so we can all contribute and build up a very useful library....

re the cable entry points, seeing as BS7671 doesn't mention these, I'm doing anything special after the 1st Jan '16 - I will be fitting enclosures made of non combustible material!

 

[NozSpark]

I think that no knockouts on the top and bottom surfaces are more versatile than ones that already have them as you can put them where you want them... Doesn't mean that I'll be rushing out to buy a M2 one any time soon though

I have a MK sentry board in my van ready to be fitted next week, if I remember I'll take some photos and post a review

 

[ProDave]

I think that no knockouts on the top and bottom surfaces are more versatile than ones that already have them as you can put them where you want them... Doesn't mean that I'll be rushing out to buy a M2 one any time soon though

I have a MK sentry board in my van ready to be fitted next week, if I remember I'll take some photos and post a review

But when I install a metal CU I don't want to be drilling holes for cable entries.

And what about adding a circuit in the future into surface mount trunking or conduit? are you suggesting drill a hole?

Yes I agree a new thread to review the new CU's would be good.  I would start that theread but my Hager CU is an old one (plastic front).  I wouldhope however Hager have kept the same back and same inards and just changed it for a metal front and metal lid.

 

[NozSpark]

I use Qmax cutters if I need a hole, and I attach a magnetic bullet level when drilling holes to stop swarf flying around the enclosure

 

[ProDave]

so when A CU is installed, and there's only a 3" gap between the top of the CU and the ceiling, how are you going to get the drill in for a new hole?

It's hard enough knocking a knock out out in that situation, let alone thinking of drilling a hole in a solid panel.

 

[NozSpark]

So how would you achieve IPxxb?

If I had to drill a hole then I'd do it rather carefully,,, but I would do it

 

[ProDave]

So how would you achieve IPxxb?

If I had to drill a hole then I'd do it rather carefully,,, but I would do it

I'm talking about a box with knock outs. not a row of holes.

Until you knock them out they are at least IP4X

 

[steptoe]

I'd go with PD on this,

I do NOT want to be having to drill holes in a CU for a domestic property,

com/ind is totally different,

domestic , entries should be available for you.

btw, Ive fitted my first one last week,

wylex, seemed ok, plenty of entry choices, and loads of headroom if you wanted to use RCBOs

my one issue, and it seems across the board,

as we are having to now use grommet strip almost universally, why not an oval hole?

or at least curved corners?

 

[Lurch]

What happened to the holes knocked out of metal enclosures that don't need any grommets? Are these out of favour now?

 

[steptoe]

What happened to the holes knocked out of metal enclosures that don't need any grommets? Are these out of favour now?

Im lost on that one Lurchio,

can you expand?

or did I miss something all those years ago?

 

[Lurch]

TBH the details are a little hazy, it was a discussion on anther forum probably 10 years ago. General gist was that manufactured holes do not necessarily always need any additional protection. I'll see what I can find when I'm back on the desktop later.

 

[Jono Pashley]

Side note the Wiska gland for tails has a converter available to go in a 32mm hole if required. Only Board i've seen with any fire seals is the Hamilton board, but as stated this isnt a requirement although id probably say it is still good practice. Far as knock outs go id much rather have gland plates top and bottom i can configure as i wish.