central heating/water timer

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ah who needs a plumber? not me :D

long long day or head scratching and urming and areing and two trips to town i got there, thanks for all the advice on here lads helped out a lot,

few photos if anyones intereted

today started like this..

PICT0386.jpg


ripped it all out, had a cup of tea

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built "edward" in the sitting room

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tested with a bit of juice it works :D

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on the wall...

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testing with stats, death trap

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nearly done

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finished..

DSCF1182.jpg


thanks everyone for the advice, :) especialy mr NozSpark Pray

 
Looks good and I'm glad you managed to sort it,,,,,

BUT

That is a Code 1 fail on a PIR (exposed live parts) --- get them relays in an enclosure!

Also some of those cables are not double insulated and are outside of an enclosure (Code 2)

 
cheers and oo yee good point, sorry havent done much in the way of pir forms in college. will get it sorted this week should of thought of that tho,

thanks

 
haha i have a lot to learn by the looks of things, il cut out a hole and put a plasterboard back box thingy on that be alright?

 
Here's a bit more info for you--

All cables that are not in an enclosure need secondary insulation (T&E has an insulation layer and a sheath) -- enclosures can be backboxes, pvc boxes, trunking, conduit, consumer units .........

You should never have any exposed live parts.

and save yourself some work and use a shallow surface box..

 
thankyou, il get round there in the morning and fix the errors before something stupid happens.

thanks for your patience il get there one day Pray

best be off to bed,

thanks again will post tomorow

 
As mentioned, stuff like that needs additional protection. the relays and bases you used come like that because they are designed to go into a control panel or similar. maybe a trip to wholesaler and get a large enclosure that needs a tool to remove cover.

leaving it like that is just asking for trouble.

 
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