M2 Consumer units, 3rd Amnd from CEF

[SLIPSHOD & SLAPDASH]

After  first seeing a pic here i picked one up from my local CEF.



First impressions are very good, a well made unit. Much thicker metal than all the others i have seen. The breakers feel good quality also. Looks a bit industrial, sideways opening lid !,  very similar to the rarely  seen Memshield 2 consumer unit ( yes they did  make a range)

Good selection of charts and labels inc a schedule. All torque settings printed on paperwork and inside board.

 Label saying to only use M2 products in the unit. The main switch has 2 good old fashioned screws in each connection, not cage terminals.



Only comments at the  moment, rear knockouts have a good 2mm gap round them and there is a few mm gap in lid next to main switch once all breakers are fitted.



Cost me £80 with any 10 mcb's, rcbo's  are available. There are many cheaper ones available but lets hope this is worth it. All links are solid copper. Good sturdy din rail.

 

[ProDave]

What about knock outs in the top bottom and sides for surface mount cables?

Neutral and earth bars in the back of the box like that look like they will start to get hard to access if the box gets very full.

Shame they didn't put 2 screws per terminal on the neutral bar, that's where I think they are really needed.

 

[Andy™]

Neutral and earth bars in the back of the box like that look like they will start to get hard to access if the box gets very full.

+1. had to put the some cables into a chint TP board not too long ago. neutral & earth tucked at the back. the wiring didnt look pretty afterwards. and that was with only a few circuits

 

[ProDave]

Isn't the lid supposed to be self closing? so how does a side hinged lid comply? You might leave it open and let the fire out?

Just spotted another pet hate of mine, the RCD's and MCB's are different heights so there's a step. It looks like they are from a different manufacturer?

 

[Davethsparky]

What about knock outs in the top bottom and sides for surface mount cables?

I hope not, they never put them where I want them and I always seem to end up praying around trying to drill half of the knockout and then inevitably fixing a best box lid over the resulting mess

 

[Blue Duck]

why differing torque values for L - N/E? 

sorry dumb question really  :|  just thought it sounded odd.

 

[SLIPSHOD & SLAPDASH]

Isn't the lid supposed to be self closing? so how does a side hinged lid comply? You might leave it open and let the fire out?

Just spotted another pet hate of mine, the RCD's and MCB's are different heights so there's a step. It looks like they are from a different manufacturer?

I started a thread asking about the lids. The BG  range have the lids hinged at the bottom. I dont think its correct.

None of the breakers are screwed in, just sitting there but i noticed main switch, rcbo's , rcd's and breakers sll have the toggles at different heights

 

[ProDave]

I hope not, they never put them where I want them and I always seem to end up praying around trying to drill half of the knockout and then inevitably fixing a best box lid over the resulting mess

I have yet to fit one of these new CU's.

Late last year, in my own new build, I fitted a big Hager board. It was the old school type with a metal body but a plastic front and lid.

It had large round knock outs on the side, and a whole row of 20mm round knock outs top and bottom, and square knock outs in the back.  I thought if only they kept the exact same design, and just put a metal front on  it, it would be a good CU.

I have yet so see one of these "new" ones that comes anywhere near close.