Rccb Keep Tripping

[SPECIAL LOCATION]

+1 wot he said!

:Salute

 

[Harris786]

Thank you very much for time and detail that you have put in to your response. I initially missed the IR test between L-E and N-E and went back today and did that. I found no reading between L-E?

The second query I have is that I went to look at a metal single light switch which is occasionally giving a electric shock, I couldn't find any problems: the earth was proper/all connections were correct, the only thing was that when I put the voltage indicator on the outer metal plate it buzzed and showed earth leakage. Please advise.   

Thank you 

 

[kerching]

He is the new RB

FFS I know it is rocket science BUT how fecking difficult is it?

Suspected earth leakage fault so by definition it is a leakage to earth, so surely it should be a statement of the bleeding obvious that 'stuff' needs testing to earth!

Nice insertion of the old sparks expression "clear"..... Only used in resuss on ER and Holby now!

Still the new and well thought out Part P will sort all that out.......

 

[Steve3948]

Is this the same job that has RCD at the front end ?????

 

[SLIPSHOD & SLAPDASH]

But as i asked yesterday , have you disconnected the cooker neutral cable at the consumer unit & pulled the fuse ?  You said you have disconnected at the cooker switch. That still leaves the cable connected 

 

[Harris786]

today i disconnected cooker and run IR test, found no reading in L-E. does it make sense? 

yes this is the same job.

 

[SLIPSHOD & SLAPDASH]

What about N-E ?

 

[steptoe]

what is 'NO READING'  ?

didnt you turn your meter on?

there must be a reading of some sort, what was it?

 

[Harris786]

I'm using megger 1551 tester and L-N and N-E have readinf 299 M ohms. but L-N very low reading.

 

[steptoe]

next time I get a too high an R1 R2 Im going to zero my leads while they are still connected,

that should bring it down a bit, 

 

[Robin Spark]

Thank you very much for time and detail that you have put in to your response. I initially missed the IR test between L-E and N-E and went back today and did that. I found no reading between L-E?

The second query I have is that I went to look at a metal single light switch which is occasionally giving a electric shock, I couldn't find any problems: the earth was proper/all connections were correct, the only thing was that when I put the voltage indicator on the outer metal plate it buzzed and showed earth leakage. Please advise.   

Thank you

What sort of voltage indicator are we talking about that shows earth leakage?

Or is it a non contact voltstick that just buzzes to show voltage present as this would work on the front plate of most switches that i know to?

 

[batty]

I'm using megger 1551 tester and L-N and N-E have readinf 299 M ohms. but L-N very low reading.

You are saying L-N and N-E is reading  299 Megohms so this is clear but then say L-N very low reading which to me is a near short. You are not making sense are you competent to be doing the tests?

 

[Robin Spark]

I'm using megger 1551 tester and L-N and N-E have readinf 299 M ohms. but L-N very low reading.

Whats your very low L-N reading?

Whats your L-E reading?

Have you got a neon at cooker switch?

 

[Harris786]

normal voltage indicator. But I checked other front plate that doesn't buzz, why is that?

cooker is not connected. test meter didn't showed any reading L-E.

 

[steptoe]

:shakehead

headbang

 

[Robin Spark]

normal voltage indicator. But I checked other front plate that doesn't buzz, why is that?

So are you using a two pole voltage tester or a non contact voltstick?

cooker is not connected. test meter didn't showed any reading L-E.

Definitive answer required or check tomorrow what your L-E reading is then come back and let us know.

 

[Bacon]

normal voltage indicator. But I checked other front plate that doesn't buzz, why is that?

cooker is not connected. test meter didn't showed any reading L-E.

Takes these with you guaranted a BUZZ.

https://www.youtube.com/embed/DnkfhRcZn-E?feature=oembed

 

[SPECIAL LOCATION]

If Deke heard there was a Buzz coming form the light switch..

he'd be expecting to see one of these....

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bus

:coat

(is the buzzing switch a DIMMER by any chance????)

Is this for a customer or your own house??????

If a customer..

then please organise a competent person to attend!

ray

 

[kme]

Right.

I wasn`t going to post in here - but I`m afraid the "urge" has overcome my reticence

Lets start with the easy one - the light switch.

Do I assume you believe that using a voltage indicator is an acceptable way to fault find a metal light switch that may have an earth fault? WRONG!

Try using your megger, and doing an R2 test instead - you may find it more helpful.

I notice you said above that, on a particular test, your meter gave "no reading"? That is an indication that you`ve forgotten to switch it on!

You also seem to imply that, if you can`t find the fault for an RCD tripping, its acceptable, in your opinion, to remove it? This attitude scares me, to be honest. It trips for a reason. Your job is to find the reason for the trip, and resolve it. Not to remove a safety device, because you`ve failed to find the fault.

"Forgetting" to do IR tests to earth, failing to do ( or mention) any R1+R2 / R2 tests, telling us results are "clear" - ????? These are not the actions of a competent person, to be honest.

Oh, by the way - you tested something at 0.5 DC????? What the heck is that? 0.5 what?

If you are charging customers for doing works at their premises, I`d suggest you`re committing fraud, by posing as a qualified tradesperson.

If, on the other hand, you`re a DIYer with access to test equipment and a bit of knowledge - then you`re out of your depth, and need to call in a professional.

Don`t forget - its all just my opinion. 

 

[Jono Pashley]

Unfortunately KME there are alot of people who just dont seem to care, case and point two "handymen" one wired an immersion element without a stat and filled the place with steam another removed the earth on a hand wash because it was tripping the rcd, failed to notice part of the control had melted and was arcing out.

More "maintenance" work i do the more i bang my head against the wall....